Toyooka, Hyogo Prefecture
Kinosaki Onsen A crab bun before the hot springs was all it took to help me unwind
I took a bite of my crab bun as I looked out at the river and its stone bridges. I’d been thinking about which bath to visit next, but this little break won me over first.
This is the story of my winter walk through Kinosaki Onsen in a yukata and haori. As I ate a warm crab bun, even my urge to hurry on began to fade.
WinterEarly December
One bite by the river, and I finally relaxed
In early December, I walked through Kinosaki Onsen in a yukata with a haori over it. By the river, I saw an arched stone bridge rising gently over the water. I was wondering which bath to visit next when the warmth of the crab bun in my hands caught my attention.
I adjusted the wrapper and took my first bite. I savored the warm dough and filling, and my eyes narrowed before I knew it. Before I could even say, “Oh, that’s good,” a smile had already spread across my face. I’d been looking toward the river, but for that moment I was completely absorbed in my crab bun.
After just one bite, I realized my shoulders had relaxed. I’d planned to unwind in a hot spring, but I was already doing that right here. I laughed at myself for getting to the relaxing part of the day a little early. Still, with warmth in both hands, even the time I spent taking in the town seemed to slow down.
When I looked up, the river and its arched stone bridge were right in front of me, with the town stretching beyond them. A moment ago, all I could think about was which bath to visit next, but wandering here was lovely too. I pulled one hand free of my haori sleeve and took another bite. I found myself narrowing my eyes with every bite, so anyone watching might have laughed and asked, “Is it really that good?”
If I told my friend, she’d probably ask whether I’d come for the hot springs or the crab buns. I’d want to say both, but right now the bun in my hands had a slight edge. As I watched the river, I realized that even this little detour before the baths had become one of the day’s pleasures.
I finished the last bite and folded up the wrapper. I wanted to keep eating, but there was a hot spring waiting for me. After one more look at the shape of the bridge, I set off through town again. Even my steps had slowed as I chose my next bath, and the warmth of the crab bun seemed to linger in my hands.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
Local specialty
Crab bun
During crab season, from November through March, you’ll find crab buns for sale outside souvenir shops. Their filling is wrapped in soft white dough, making them easy to enjoy as you walk. I held one in both hands and savored it, my eyes narrowing with delight. I was already looking forward to another bite before I’d even finished.
Highlights
A riverside town with arched stone bridges
From the street by Kinosaki Onsen Station, you can walk to a willow-lined river. Arched stone bridges cross the water along its banks. Whenever I looked up from my crab bun, another bridge caught my eye, and soon I was enjoying the stroll as much as the view.
Explore the public baths in a yukata and haori
The town encourages visitors to explore in yukata, with an extra layer in colder weather. There are seven public bathhouses, so it’s fun to choose your next soak as you explore. I found myself relaxing during a little break before my bath, and before I knew it, even my walking pace had slowed.
Getting there
To Kinosaki Onsen by car or train
- Driving route
- From the Toyooka-Izushi IC on the Kita-Kinki Toyooka Expressway to Kinosaki Onsen
- Where the walk begins
- From Kinosaki Onsen Station along the street toward the river
By car, head to Kinosaki Onsen from the Toyooka-Izushi IC on the Kita-Kinki Toyooka Expressway. By train, JR limited express services run to Kinosaki Onsen Station from Kyoto, Osaka, Sannomiya, and Himeji. From the station, walk along the street toward the river and take in the townscape I admired while eating a crab bun.
Once you’re in town, walk along the street from the station toward the river. Use the map below and Kinosaki Onsen’s official access page to plan your route.
More Spot Guides
If you enjoyed this story, you might like these places too. I've gone back to each of them in different seasons, again and again.
