A Drive Through Terihakyō Gorge Autumn Leaves Overhead and 11 Named Waterfalls

As I started driving through Terihakyō Gorge in October, branches reached right over the road. I’d expected to admire the autumn leaves from a distance, but here it felt as if the forest were coming to meet me. Cold air slipped into my red convertible with the top down, and I could feel autumn even beneath my black jacket. With my hands still on the wheel, I looked ahead to the next bend.

A rocky slope runs along the left, a guardrail along the right. The leaf-strewn road winds between the trees, and the way ahead comes into view a little at a time. I stayed focused on driving while taking in how close everything felt. I love a wide-open view, too, but a road that winds into the forest makes me want to keep going just to see what’s around the next bend.

I’d heard that the haiku poet Mizuhara Shūōshi named 11 waterfalls, large and small, at Terihakyō. Senryū Falls, Hisui Falls, Higurashi Falls. I was here to see the falls, but just reading their names had me excited already. I meant to memorize them all, but once I started driving, all I could think about was the bend ahead. Reviewing the names could wait until I got home.

As I drove along, the canopy thickened and thinned overhead. Where gaps opened in the trees, sunlight reached my face; where the branches overlapped, the air turned cool again. With the top down, I could feel the change so clearly. Keeping my eyes on the road and my hands on the wheel, I couldn’t help smiling. I was so glad I’d come for this air.

After leaving the gorge road behind, I stopped in Minakami for sweets from Koarai Seika. The soft, fluffy dough was filled with red bean paste and whipped cream. With the first bite, a gentle sweetness spread through my mouth, so different from the cold autumn air. I wanted another bite right away. I meant to take my time, but before I knew it, my eyes were fixed on the treat in my hands.

When I finished the sweets, I found myself thinking back to the forest road. I remember more than how beautiful the autumn leaves were: the chill as I passed beneath the branches, the feel of steering into each bend. Terihakyō is the kind of place I’d return to whenever I want to drive right through the scenery. Next time, I want to learn a little more about the waterfalls whose names I read before setting out.