Otaru, Hokkaido
Otaru by night from Mount Kenashi Lookout City lights tracing the bay and a little panju pastry
Mount Kenashi Lookout sits along National Route 393, with views over Otaru and Ishikari Bay. I came after sunset in late summer, while there was still a little light in the sky. I took small bites of a panju I’d bought in town and waited for the city lights to spread along the coast.
I waited by the car for the city lights to come on. Below the photo, my story of that evening continues.
SummerAfter sunset in late summer
Waiting by the car for the city lights to come on
The sky was still a little bright even after sunset. I parked in the car park at Mount Kenashi Lookout and got out to see lights dotting Otaru below. Beyond the city lay Ishikari Bay. I’d pictured the sea in daylight before coming, but at this hour, the shape of the city caught my eye more than the expanse of water. I wanted to follow the lights and see how far the coastline went.
I walked up to the wooden railing at the edge of the viewing area and gazed out in silence for a while. The lights from buildings and roads overlapped, with tiny points of light stretching into the distance. I’d only just driven through the city below, and I’d be driving through it again on my way back. The view made it feel like I was looking at the next part of my day’s drive.
I went back to the car and opened the paper wrapper around the panju I’d bought in town. It’s a small round pastry with sweet red bean paste tucked inside a thin shell. As I bit into it, I tasted the crust first, then the sweetness of the filling. It was small enough to disappear quickly, but I wanted to watch the night view and savour the taste too. I chewed more slowly than usual, and soon found myself looking out at the city again with the pastry still in my hand.
There’s a theory that the name panju comes from combining pan (bread) and manju. When I first heard that, I’d imagined something more like bread. It fit easily in my palm and was cuter than I’d expected. A little treat I’d picked up in Otaru had turned into something special to snack on with the night view in front of me.
The city lights came into sharper focus as the sky darkened. Otaru seemed to sit between the mountain ridge and the sea, and I could see more depth to the view than before. I wondered if the area over there was somewhere I’d passed through earlier that day. I didn’t get back in the car; I stayed and watched a little longer. The breeze brushed my hair, but I still wanted to keep looking at the view.
When I finished the last bite, the paper wrapper suddenly felt light. I’d made up my mind to go once the snack was gone, but I didn’t want to turn away from the lights yet. I tucked the wrapper away, followed the curve of the bay with my eyes all the way to its far edge, and finally opened the car door. On the road down into town, I looked ahead and held the steering wheel. I found myself looking forward to driving back down into those lights.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
Things to try on your trip
Otaru panju
A little Otaru pastry with a thin crust and plenty of sweet red bean paste inside. I bought some in town and brought them to the lookout. As I took my time over them and watched the night view, I found myself wishing the little snack would last longer.
Highlights
The bay’s shape, traced in city lights
From Mount Kenashi Lookout, you can see Otaru and Ishikari Bay. At night, the city lights stand out against the dark sea. I arrived while the sky was still bright and was captivated as the lights grew clearer.
A little Otaru panju to take along
Otaru panju is a baked sweet shaped like a half-sphere or a small bell, with a thin shell and red bean paste inside. One theory says the name combines pan (bread) with manju. I picked some up in town to snack on while I watched the night view. Taking little bites made even the wait fun.
Road information
National Route 393
From Otaru, the road climbs to Mount Kenashi Lookout. I stepped out of the car and looked over the bay; the view waiting at the top made me sigh.
On the way back, I drove down into town through the lights I’d just been watching. It was the same road, but the return drive felt different.
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