Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture
Lake Ashi I chased the mist across the lake and lost track of time
At dawn in early November, low mist drifted across Lake Ashi. I held my coat collar with one hand as I watched. I meant to say, “It’s cold,” but the words never came. The morning was so quiet that I wanted to stay a little longer.
Read the story and highlights, then take in the view with me.
AutumnDawn in early November
I meant to say, “It’s cold,” but no words came out
At dawn in early November, I was looking out over Lake Ashi. Once I’d stepped out of the car, the surface looked much calmer than I’d expected. Across the water, a thin mist drifted slowly past the reflection of the mountains. I was about to say, “It’s cold,” but before I could open my mouth, I was lost in the view.
I held my coat collar with one hand and stayed to watch the lake a little longer. The cold air caught me off guard, but I didn’t want to leave. As I followed the mist moving over the surface, the reflection of the mountains slowly changed.
I drew a deep breath and let it out slowly. My breath appeared in a small white cloud in front of me. “Oh, I’m making mist too,” I thought, and laughed to myself. Compared with the mist over the lake, my own cloud was only a tiny puff. Still, it made me feel part of that cold morning.
After a while, the sky began to lighten. The mist stayed low over the water, drifting slowly along. Its shape changed from one moment to the next, so I kept following it with my eyes, wanting to remember the view just as it was. I thought about taking a photo, but for now I just wanted to keep watching.
I turned a little, ready to head back to the car, then looked at the lake one more time. The mountain outlines were clearer now. I meant to leave, but my feet stopped again. As dawn brightened, the cold mattered less; what mattered was not missing a moment.
I let out one last deep breath and pulled my coat collar into place. Just saying I’d seen the lake didn’t feel like enough. I wanted to remember the mist moving, the sky growing brighter, and that moment I didn’t want to leave. Even after I got back in the car, I found myself looking out the window once more.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
Local specialties
Hakone Pass Soba
Soba is listed as a local specialty at Hakone Pass Roadside Station, which overlooks Lake Ashi. After looking out over the lake on a cold morning, I’d be in the mood for something warm. It would make a lovely stop on a drive to Hakone Pass.
Highlights
A caldera lake 724 m above sea level
Lake Ashi is a caldera lake formed by Hakone Volcano. When I watched the surface at dawn, the mist seemed to be the only thing moving across that wide view, and I was left speechless.
Autumn leaves and lakeside history
You can enjoy the autumn foliage around the lake, with Hakone Shrine, Hakone Checkpoint, and the old Tokaido cedar avenue nearby. After taking in the quiet of the morning, I found myself wanting to plan a trip around the lakeshore, too.
Getting there and enjoying the drive
By bus to Motohakone Port
- From
- Odawara Station and Hakone-Yumoto Station
- Get off at
- Motohakone Port
From Odawara Station or Hakone-Yumoto Station, take a Hakone Tozan Bus or an Izu Hakone Bus bound for Hakone-machi and get off at “Motohakone Port.” Once I’d stepped out of the car and seen the lake at dawn, I wanted to stay just a little longer. If you’re planning a trip around the lake, consider making Motohakone your destination.
Open Lake Ashi and Motohakone on the map below. I’d love to make time for both: taking in the lake and exploring the history along its shores.
More Spot Guides
If you enjoyed this story, you might like these places too. I've gone back to each of them in different seasons, again and again.