Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture
Hakone-Yumoto Onsen With my fingertips still warm from the bath, I lingered over the marquetry pattern
At dusk in mid-January, after my soak, I looked out over the Hayakawa River in Hakone-Yumoto. I held a small box made with Hakone marquetry up to the light and found myself absorbed in its intricate pattern all over again. I’d only planned to stop for a hot spring bath, but the detour gave me another memory I wanted to take home.
Read the story and highlights, then take in the view with me.
WinterDusk in mid-January
I lingered over a little box and wished I could stay longer
At dusk in mid-January, I stepped out of the hot spring and looked out over the Hayakawa River in Hakone-Yumoto. The cold air brushed my cheeks, but the warmth from my bath still lingered inside me. I let out a quiet sigh, and my breath formed a little cloud in front of me. That alone made me feel the detour had been worth it.
In my hands was a small box made with Hakone marquetry. I’d chosen it after my soak because I was drawn to it. I wanted another look at the fine pattern, so I lifted it in both hands and held it to the light. Different shades of wood sat side by side, forming neat little shapes.
As I followed one shape with my eyes, another appeared beside it. I tried to find the pattern I’d been looking at a moment ago, turning the box back a little to check. I was trying to focus, but my gaze kept wandering somewhere else. It was such a small box—how could it have so much to look at?
When I looked up from the box, the Hayakawa River came into view. I’d been studying those tiny patterns, so I was a little surprised by how open the view was. I readjusted my grip on the box as I listened to the river, and felt like I was enjoying more than just a soak—I was enjoying my time in town, too.
When I get home, I’ll show this box to my friend. She’ll probably ask what I’m going to put in it. I chose it for its pattern, so I hadn’t decided what to keep inside yet. It made me chuckle again: I wanted to treasure the box before I’d figured out what to put in it.
I watched the river a little longer, then put the box away. My fingertips were still warm from the bath, and the marquetry pattern I’d studied again and again was still clear in my mind. I hope that every time I open the box at home, I’ll remember this evening, too. I’m so glad I stopped in Hakone-Yumoto before heading back.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
Local specialties
Hakone hot spring manju
Marushima Honten in Hakone-Yumoto features hot spring manju. After a soak and some time admiring my little box, I’d like to pick out a sweet souvenir to take home, too. I like the thought of enjoying one at home while I talk about my day.
Highlights
Yumoto Onsen, Hakone’s gateway
Hakone-Yumoto is Hakone’s signature hot spring town. It’s described as the oldest of Hakone’s 17 hot spring areas. The moment I let out a relieved sigh after my soak, I thought, “I’m glad I came here today.”
Where wood grain and color come together: Hakone marquetry
Hakone marquetry is said to have originated in Hatajuku in the late Edo period. It began with trays and boxes made by fitting together pieces of wood with different colors and grain patterns. No matter how many times I looked at the pattern on my little box, I kept wanting to find another shape.
Getting there and enjoying the drive
The hot spring district, with Hakone-Yumoto Station as your landmark
- Gateway
- Hakone-Yumoto Station
- Trip focus
- Hot springs and a stroll around town
Hakone-Yumoto Station is a hub for rail lines and buses serving the different parts of Hakone. The streets outside the station are lined with souvenir shops and restaurants. After a soak, I found myself wanting to take home memories of the town, too.
Open Hakone-Yumoto Onsen on the map and pair a soak with a stroll around town. I found myself wanting to remember, once I was back home, even the time I’d spent admiring the little yosegi box after my bath.
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