Hinohara Village, Tokyo
I take a bite as I study the icicles' shapes A late-January afternoon walk to Hinohara Village's frozen falls
On a late-January afternoon, after several cold days had let the ice build up, I walked the trail to Hossawa Falls. Pick up a doughnut at the entrance, then follow the path and see the frozen falls for yourself.
Read my winter story about the frozen falls and an okara doughnut.
WinterLate January · afternoon, after the ice had built up
Taking in the white ice, shape by shape
In late January, after a stretch of cold days, I set off for Hossawa Falls. I picked up an okara doughnut at Chitoseya by the entrance, then walked along the trail. Over my pale purple knit dress, I wore a navy down coat. As I moved between the trees, the air felt colder against my cheeks. I was here to see the falls in winter.
When I reached the waterfall, white ice was layered across the rock face. Long, slender icicles hung high above, while rounded mounds of ice bulged lower down. It all came from the same water, yet it had taken so many different shapes. I started at about eye level and slowly let my gaze travel upward.
I lifted the paper-wrapped doughnut in my hand toward my face. After walking in the cold, that little round treat made me happy. I took a bite; it was soft and chewy, and I looked back at the falls. I took my time with both, nibbling the doughnut and taking in the ice bit by bit.
Beside the white ice, I could see dark rock and green moss. Once I stopped looking only at the ice, I began to make out the shape of the rock wall as well. Thinking of water droplets cooling and freezing little by little, I could picture the rounded formations and slender icicles taking shape over time. I wanted to leave with a clear memory of how the waterfall looked that day.
After finishing the doughnut, I took one last look at the whole waterfall. This winter detour even had me curious about how thick the ice was. On the path back, I found myself thinking about the treat I'd picked up at the entrance. The fun of picking out a snack before setting off stayed with me all the way to the falls. Once I was back at the car, I wanted to talk about the day somewhere warm.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
A treat for the trip
Chitoseya's okara doughnut
A Chitoseya treat made with okara (soy pulp) kneaded with soy milk. The shop is by the entrance to the trail to the falls. After walking in the cold, I was glad to have that soft, chewy bite. My eyes kept drifting back to the ice, so I took a bite and looked up at the falls again.
Highlights
Take your time with the ice at Hossawa Falls
After a stretch of cold weather, ice builds up at Hossawa Falls. Look at the rounded mounds and long icicles, and you'll see a very different side of the falls from the summer flow. Even after taking it all in once, I found my eyes wandering back.
Pick up a snack at the start of the walk
Chitoseya sits by the trail entrance, where you can buy okara doughnuts. They're made with okara kneaded together with soy milk. I picked one up before setting off, then enjoyed it during a break to look at the falls.
The trail to the falls
Hossawa Falls Trail
- Distance from the road to the falls
- 1km
- Walking time
- 15–20 minutes
Hinohara Village's guide lists the distance from the road and an estimated walk time. From the car park, follow the wood-chip path along the stream to reach the falls.
Hinohara Village's guide gives the trail distance and walking time to the falls. I picked up a snack at the entrance and enjoyed it during my walk to see the falls.
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