Beppu City, Oita Prefecture
Yukemuri Observatory Nighttime steam and a bittersweet bite
One plume after another rises between the town lights. With a cup of Jigoku-mushi pudding in hand, I wanted to stay and watch Beppu at night a little longer.
Come along for a winter night of Kannawa's rising steam and a sweet little break.
WinterA January night
I meant to eat the pudding quickly
I came to the observatory on a winter night in Beppu, hoping to see the steam rising after dark. I parked and turned toward town. Plumes of steam rose between the lights of the houses, one after another. I'd heard Beppu was a hot-spring town, but spread out before me like this, it felt so much bigger than I'd imagined.
As I watched, the cold made my shoulders tense up. I tucked my face into my scarf, and that's when I remembered the Jigoku-mushi pudding I'd brought. I'd saved it for this: a little treat to enjoy as I watched the town lights. I scooped up the first bite.
The caramel's bitter edge made my eyes widen. Since it was pudding, I was braced for sweetness. But I loved that bitter edge and immediately wanted another bite. I stopped myself from rushing to scoop up another spoonful and took my time savoring the taste.
Still holding my spoon, I watched the town as the steam shifted shape and drifted away. I thought I was following one plume, then somehow found myself watching the one beside it. When had my eyes moved to the next one? I had to laugh at myself for even noticing.
After laughing, I had another bite. I savored the caramel, then looked up to find the steam drifting somewhere new. I'd planned to eat quickly and then take in the view, but each bite made me linger a little longer. For a little detour like this, there's no need to rush.
When I finished the last bite, I stared down at the empty cup and thought, 'It's all gone already.' I didn't feel like heading straight home, so I stayed a little longer to watch the lights in town. It became a winter break I'll remember for the bittersweet pudding and steam rising into the night.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
Local specialties
Jigoku-mushi pudding
In Myōban, Beppu, you can find jigoku-mushi pudding, cooked with steam from the hot springs. It's a little firm and rich, with a pleasantly bitter caramel sauce. The first bite made my eyes widen, and I wanted to slow down and savor the next one.
Highlights
Steam rising from Kannawa
From this observatory, you can see the steam rising from Kannawa, as well as Mount Tsurumi and Mount Ōgiyama. Seeing plumes rise from all over town made my heart lift: I'd really made it to Beppu, the hot-spring city.
A night of lights and rising steam
Town lights, with steam drifting above them. As I watched the lights and steam together, the lights stayed still, but the view kept changing. I stopped eating my pudding and got completely absorbed.
Getting there and enjoying the drive
Drive to Yukemuri Observatory
- By car from JR Beppu Station
- About 20 minutes
- Observatory address
- Kannawa Higashi 8 Kumi, Beppu City, Oita Prefecture (Royal Town Daikanzan)
I got out of the car and went to take in Kannawa's steam and the mountain view. The moment I spotted the town lights, I forgot all about my pudding and got lost in the view.
After parking, I spent some time taking in Kannawa from the observatory. I loved being able to see the mountains and rising steam all at once.
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