Sayo no Nakayama Pass Take your time with the syrup as it stretches from the spoon

I’d stopped at Koizumiya and brought some Kosodate-ame back to the car. When I lifted the spoon from the little cup, a thin strand of syrup stretched up after it. I’d pictured a round candy, so I was curious before I’d even tasted the first spoonful. I brought the spoon to my mouth and slowly savored its sweetness.

I scooped up another spoonful, and this time the syrup stretched into an even longer thread above the cup. I can’t remember the last time I paid attention to my hand as I ate something sweet. A breeze found its way into the sleeves of my mint-green blouse, and the trees beside me were swaying, too. It was just the right treat for a little break beside the parked car.

A stone wall ran along my left, with stone steps rising above it. The steps beside Koizumiya lead up to Yonaki-ishi, the Night-Crying Stone. I glanced at the cup in my hand, then turned toward the steps. I’d come just for a snack, but now I wanted to walk farther and see what lay beyond.

Kosodate-ame is a syrup made from glutinous rice and barley. The legend of Yonaki-ishi tells of a rescued baby who was raised on syrup. Knowing the story behind the local sweet made my spoonful feel tied to this road’s history. Once I’d finished eating, I wanted to climb the steps and see the place for myself.

I’ve heard Sayo no Nakayama was once a tough stretch for travelers crossing the Old Tokaido. Today, the area has roads and parks, and you can enjoy walking among the historic sites. I’d spend some time by the stone steps first, then walk a stretch of the old road, too. Adding a walk to the drive lets me see more, even on the same trip.

I savored the last spoonful, little by little. When I realized it was almost gone, I started wishing I could keep watching the syrup stretch a little longer. If you visit Sayo no Nakayama in early summer, try pairing the local sweet with a walk beyond the stone steps. I set the cup down, already thinking about my next steps.