A drive on the Ishizuchi Skyline Step out of the car and look up at autumn’s rocky peaks

On a morning in mid-October, I drove up the Ishizuchi Skyline. Trees stretched on beyond every bend, and cool air flowed into my open-top car. I was glad I’d zipped up my navy quilted jacket. Eyes on the road and both hands on the wheel, I took each curve one at a time. Each bend made it feel more real: I was deep in the mountains.

I parked at Nagao-One Ridge Observatory Deck and stepped out; gravel crunched under my shoes. The road ran just beyond the wooden fence, with a slope covered in autumn foliage beyond it. I’d planned to take in the trees first, but when I looked up, a sharp rocky peak appeared above them. Wait—is that what a mountain summit looks like?!

The light was bright, so I raised a hand to shade my eyes and traced the ridge with my gaze. Unlike the soft lines of the branches, the rocky tips were sharply defined. I couldn't believe the mountain kept going all the way up there. I started to reach for my phone to take a picture, then let my hand fall. I wanted to take it in with my own eyes first.

Telescopes stood in a row by the fence. I wondered if they’d bring the distant rocks closer, but first I took in the mountain as a whole. I was glad to find this view at the end of all those curves. In the quiet, so different from the road, I could even hear myself exhale.

I slowly lowered my gaze. Trees covered the mountainside as far as I could see. I’d come just for the autumn leaves, but with the rocky peak in view, I could feel the full scale of the mountain. Even as I reached for the car door, I found myself looking back at the mountain again.

The road continues from here to Tsuchigoya. Tsuchigoya Shiraishi Lodge mentions a meal featuring rock tripe. That got me wondering what the mountain itself might taste like. Still picturing the branches against the rocky peak, I decided to drive on. I straightened my jacket sleeve, climbed back into the car, and looked ahead, glad there was another bend to come.