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PROJECT ZQQ
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Nanjō City, Okinawa Prefecture

A Drive to Chinen Cape Park A snack first, then the sea at the end of the path

Tucked behind the Nanjō City Regional Products Center, Chinen Cape Park juts out over the Pacific. On a summer afternoon, I snacked by the car park on chinsukō I’d bought earlier, then followed the path to the cape, where I took a breather in the sea breeze by the red-tiled pavilion, looking out toward Kudaka and Komaka Islands.

Read about a summer-afternoon stroll to the cape after a snack.

A woman stands beside a wooden fence on the grass by the car park at Chinen Cape Park, holding chinsukō. She wears a light blue gingham top and white shorts; a red convertible is parked in the bay behind her. A gymnasium stands to the left, and the sea is visible in the distance to the right.

SummerSummer afternoon

A snack by the car park, then the breeze at the cape

After spending three weeks driving around Kyushu in summer, I continued my trip by taking the ferry from Kagoshima New Port to Naha with my red convertible on board. The ferry called at the Amami Islands on the way; about 25 hours later, I reached Naha Port. That was two days ago. Today, I drove south with the top down to see the sea in Nanjō.

In the early afternoon, I parked at Chinen Cape Park, where there’s room for dozens of cars, and stepped onto the path. Beyond a large building, the sky opened wide, and through the trees on my right I caught a glimpse of the sea. I’d driven down with the top open, so my hair was still tousled from the wind.

First, though, a chinsukō. I opened the bag of sweets I’d bought at Arakaki Confectionery’s Tamagusuku shop before coming here, held the wrapper in one hand and the sweet in the other. The breeze nudged the hem of my light blue top. I was already set on heading for the sea, but I was looking forward to this bite too—and I kept glancing down at it.

It gave a light crunch, then the sweetness spread through my mouth. I caught the little crumbs in the wrapper as I finished the rest. When I looked up, I could see my red car beyond the black fence. It had crossed over from Kagoshima with me on the ferry, and seeing it from a little distance here made me realize just how far south we’d come.

I hear lard is used in chinsukō. Maybe that’s what makes it so crisp and crumbly. The Tamagusuku shop is attached to the chinsukō factory, and apparently they have their own chinsukō ice cream, too. I’m going to try that next time.

I tucked away the wrapper and headed for the walking path. Near the car park, the trees partly hid the sea; as I walked, it opened up in front of me. At the tip of the cape, I stopped and faced the Pacific. Water in every direction. I’d only meant to make a quick detour, but I had a feeling I’d be staying here longer than planned.

I hear there’s a coral reef stretching out below the park. After gazing at the distant horizon, I looked back at the water close by and could see how its brightness shifted from one spot to another. I brushed the hair from my face, then turned toward the islands. I’d heard this was a good place to see Kudaka and Komaka Islands, so I checked their positions against the map.

After taking in the view from the cape, I rested in a red-tiled pavilion. The roof kept the sun off me, and only the sea breeze slipped through. As I caught my breath in the shade, I pictured the shapes of the two islands I’d spotted earlier. I could remember how they sat in relation to each other more clearly than when I’d been squinting at them in the sun.

Before heading back to the car, I stopped at the Nanjō City Regional Products Center, too. The shop carries local specialties and crafts, and it’s fun to browse for things made near the sea I’d just been looking at. As I picked up a few things that might make nice keepsakes, I found myself replaying the view from the cape.

Back at the car park, I put the top down on my red car. The bag of chinsukō was still half full. I decided to save the rest for a snack back where I’m staying tonight, folded the top of the bag over twice, and set it on the passenger seat.

At the tip of the cape in summer, a woman in a light blue gingham top and white shorts stands by a wooden fence, holding down her windblown hair as she looks toward islands low on the horizon. A red-tiled pavilion and the Pacific are behind her.

The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.

Chinen’s Sea at Night

On an August night, a red convertible with its headlights on climbs Nirai Bridge and Kanai Bridge, which curve in a broad arc along the hillside above the sea. A path of moonlight stretches across the water below, with stars overhead.
One August night, I drove up Nirai Bridge and Kanai Bridge from the sea at Chinen. A thin ribbon of moonlight stretched across the water below.

Photos of this place3 images

  • Nanjō City, Okinawa Prefecture · Summer

  • Nanjō City, Okinawa Prefecture · Summer

  • Nanjō City, Okinawa Prefecture · Chinen’s Sea at Night (Summer)

Local specialties

Chinsukō

A crisp, crumbly Okinawan cookie. Arakaki Confectionery’s Tamagusuku shop in Nanjō City carries chinsukō. I brought some I’d picked up earlier and had a bite before walking to the cape.

Ōjima Island tempura

Ōjima Island in Nanjō City is known for tempura made with fish, squid, mozuku, and aosa seaweed. On the way back from the cape, I’d love to cross the bridge and look for some fresh from the fryer.

Kudaka Island salt candy

Kudaka Island’s specialties include salt candy. You can look for it at the Nanjō City Regional Products Center, too—a perfect souvenir after a day spent looking out toward the island.

Highlights

The Pacific at the end of the path

This park sits on a cape that juts out over the sea, with a coral reef below. I followed the path and took in the Pacific and two islands from the tip.

A breather in the red-tiled pavilion

There’s a red-tiled pavilion and a walking path in the park. It sits just behind the Nanjō City Regional Products Center, so it’s easy to add a sea-breeze stroll to a drive through southern Okinawa.

Getting to the park

Getting here from Tokyo

From Tokyo
Fly to Naha AirportAbout 45–60 minutes by car from Naha Airport
Taking the car across
From Kagoshima New Port to Naha PortAbout 25 hours by ferry. From Naha Port, about 23km and 45 minutes.
Expressway exit
Haebaru-Kita ICAbout 18km and 30 minutes to the cape’s car park via Prefectural Route 86 and other roads.
Road to the cape
National Route 331The car park is behind the Nanjō City Regional Products Center.

Getting to Chinen Cape Park

Drive from Naha Airport
About 60 minutes
Walk from Sefa-Utaki Entrance Bus Stop
About 5 minutes

The park is behind the Nanjō City Regional Products Center. Park the car, then follow the walking path to the cape.

The drive from Naha Airport takes about 60 minutes; the walk from Sefa-Utaki Entrance Bus Stop takes about 5 minutes. I took a little break by the car park before setting off on foot.