Driving to Cape Zanpa A Lighthouse View That Stopped Me Mid-Bite

I saved Cape Zanpa for the last stop on today’s drive. As I walked into the park, a white lighthouse came into view beyond the grass. The sea and sky opened up around it. I felt like walking a little farther, but first I wanted a break. I took the purple sweet potato tart from my bag and held it gently in both hands.

When I folded back the wrapper, there was a neat swirl of purple filling. I took a bite. It was gently sweet, and the crust crumbled softly in my mouth. As I savored it, I looked up and saw the evening sun reflected on the sea. I’d meant to finish my snack first, but I found myself staring at the view instead.

A breeze made the sleeve of my light jacket flutter. Beyond the grass was a rugged, rock-strewn shore. I could hear waves beyond it, and the white lighthouse stood out in crisp outline. As I gazed toward the distant horizon, I found myself wanting to take my time and think back over the day’s drive.

I’d heard the cliffs at Cape Zanpa are around 30 m high and stretch for about 2 km. From the park, you can see the line of rocks and the wide sea beyond. Waves broke into white foam against the rocks, then another rolled in. I watched wave after wave for a while, tart still in hand.

The tart is made with purple sweet potatoes, a local specialty of Yomitan Village. It was created in 1986 as part of an effort to revitalize the village. The tart I’d brought along was connected to the village’s story, too. Knowing that made me want to slow down and savor my next bite.

I took another bite and looked back out at the sea. With every little change in the light, the lighthouse looked different, too. I held the wrapper more securely, saving the last bite for later. After all that driving, I still had a moment like this waiting for me. Before heading home, I wanted to spend a little longer looking out at the sea.