Driving to Sumoto Castle Ruins From a Forest Car Park to the Sea Beyond the Stone Walls

On an early-summer afternoon, I drove toward Mt. Mikuma, keeping my eyes on the road and my hands on the wheel, then parked at the mountaintop car park. When I opened the door, the engine I'd been listening to fell silent, and I could hear the wind moving through the trees. The town wasn't far away, but suddenly I felt surrounded by forest.

Beside the car, I adjusted my backpack straps and turned toward the path. With my black jacket open, I craned my neck to get a look. I thought the castle would be right there, but all I could see were trees and a hedge. Not being able to see it yet only made me more curious about the view waiting ahead.

I set off toward the castle ruins, crunching over the fine gravel underfoot. In the shade, the air felt cool against my cheeks. Even after parking the car, there was still so much to enjoy on foot. I decided to take my time exploring the ruins instead of hurrying back.

The broad stone steps led to the main bailey, enclosed by stone walls. I looked up at the huge stones stacked on one another, and my head tipped back without me even noticing. What kind of view had made people choose this spot for a castle? My steps toward the keep platform quickened a little.

When I looked up, the town and the sea spread out before me. I'd only just left my car in the forest, and now I could see so far into the distance. I let out a little gasp; after that, I couldn't find the words. Seeing the houses between me and the sea brought home just how close the castle is to the town below.

Apparently, the building on the keep platform isn't a faithful reconstruction of the old castle, but a mock keep built as a memorial. I'd been drawn to its charming shape, but taking in the massive stone walls around it, too, made me feel how much this place was built for defense. I'd meant to photograph only the building, but then I wanted the steps and stone walls in the frame, too.

After making a full circuit, I retraced my steps. When I took off my backpack by the car, my shoulders felt instantly lighter. I could still picture the sea with my eyes closed. I'm glad I set out from that car park where nothing was visible; before getting back into the car, I found myself looking once more toward the path to the ruins.