Obanazawa, Yamagata Prefecture
Ginzan Onsen A footbath, curry bread and a moment to exhale
At dusk, gas lamps glow along the Ginzan River between rows of wooden inns. After soaking my feet in a footbath and eating curry bread, even the cold air on this snowy day felt wonderful.
A late-January story of taking a break in the snowy hot-spring town at dusk.
WinterLate January, at dusk
I warmed my feet and never wanted to leave
After walking through snowy Ginzan Onsen, I sat down at the riverside footbath. As I dipped my feet into the hot water, I felt the chill slowly ease. When my shoulders relaxed, a sigh escaped me—much bigger than I expected.
I was holding the curry bread I’d bought in the hot-spring town. I held onto the wrapper and took a bite, but it was still piping hot, so I blew on it. My feet weren’t the only thing warming up—my mouth was, too. Could a short break on a winter’s day feel this good?
I wanted another bite right away, but this time I blew on it properly first. My eyes kept flicking from the bread to the river and back again. Trying to enjoy the view and my snack at the same time kept me surprisingly busy.
At dusk, I could see the lights of the wooden inns lining both banks. I’d seen the same view while walking, but sitting down made me want to take it in one building at a time. I paused with the bread in my hand, my feet still soaking in the hot water.
Each breath of cold air made me more aware of the warmth in the water around my feet. My feet had warmed up enough that I could walk now, but I still didn’t feel like getting up. I could leave any time I wanted, but for now I wanted to keep looking at the river and the inns a little longer.
When I finished the curry bread, I folded up the empty wrapper. My feet were still in the water. I’d only meant to take a short break, but even this quiet time became part of what I loved about the trip. When I think back on winter in Ginzan Onsen, this warmth will be the first thing that comes to mind.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
What to eat in the hot-spring town
Haikara-san’s Curry Bread
Haikara-san’s curry bread is one of Ginzan Onsen’s specialties. I have to blow on each hot bite, which makes my break in the footbath even more enjoyable.
Sights to see here
Wooden inns and gas lamps along the Ginzan River
Wooden hot-spring inns line both banks of the Ginzan River, and gas lamps come on at dusk. I looked up from the footbath to take it all in, and my quick break turned into a long one.
Warashi-yu, a Footbath by the River
Warashi-yu is a footbath in the center of the hot-spring town, fed directly by the hot spring. Sitting there and taking in the view, I felt the tension leave my whole body.
The story behind the name Ginzan Onsen
Ginzan Onsen takes its name from Nobesawa Silver Mine, which once flourished here. Looking at the row of inns, I found myself wondering how many people had been here before this became a hot-spring town.
Getting to Ginzan Onsen
If you’re visiting by car for the day
- Travel method
- Shuttle bus to the entrance of the hot-spring town
- Starting point
- Taishō Romankan Car Park
Park at the Taishō Romankan Car Park and take the shuttle bus to the entrance of the hot-spring town. Once I arrive, I’d love to walk around and enjoy the riverside scenery.
From the train station to the hot-spring town
- Travel method
- Ginzan Line local bus to Ginzan Onsen
- Starting point
- Oishida Station
From Oishida Station, there’s a local bus to Ginzan Onsen. I’m looking forward to settling into the footbath once I reach the hot-spring town.
Once you reach the hot-spring town, stroll along the Ginzan River to Warashi-yu. After walking, I warmed my feet in the water and found myself wanting to stay and admire the view.
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