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Uonuma, Niigata

Exploring Shiori Pass The clouds had me so captivated that I forgot to read my map

Shiori Pass is on National Route 352 in Uonuma. At dawn in mid-October, I walked from the car park along the trail to Viewpoint 1. I was so taken by the clouds spilling over the mountain ridge that I forgot to read the map in my hand.

At dawn in mid-October, while checking my map at Shiori Pass in Uonuma, Niigata, I was transfixed by the clouds rolling over the mountains. I wanted to watch them a little longer instead of checking the map again.

I’m looking out at clouds spilling over the autumn ridge, holding my map low. I wear a long cream-colored down coat, a gray hat, and a pale purple scarf, and carry a plain backpack; autumn leaves line the trail.

AutumnDawn in mid-October

White clouds sweep into the autumn mountains

I stepped out of the car at Shiori Pass that morning and zipped up my long down coat. I put on a gray knit hat and pale purple scarf, then slung on my small backpack. As the sky began to brighten, I left the car park for the trail and set off for Viewpoint 1.

With the folded map in my hands, I spotted white clouds through the trees. I looked up and saw them spilling over the mountains between a rounded peak on my left and a taller one on my right. I froze, mouth hanging open, still holding the map. Clouds really do drift this low.

From the sea of clouds in the distance, a white stream spilled down the slope in front of me. At the narrowest point, another cloud seemed to catch up and roll over it. I could see why they call it a waterfall of clouds, even before I read the explanation.

Sunlight came through and brightened the autumn leaves on the nearby branches. The distant mountains were still hazy, but the leaves at my feet stood out in crisp detail. I lowered my map again and watched the light spread between the mountains and clouds. By then, the morning I’d woken up early for had become one I couldn’t forget.

I followed one cloud with my eyes, then found myself waiting for just one more. Even with my fingertips tucked into my coat sleeves, I couldn’t make myself look away to check the map again. I’d driven the mountain road to get here, never imagining a morning like this was waiting for me. I took a deep breath, wanting to remember the cold air, too.

On the way back, I’d love to try an onigiri made with freshly harvested rice in Uonuma. But first, I wanted to watch these clouds a little longer. I folded the map and slipped it back into my backpack. I could work out where to go next later. For now, I wanted to watch the day unfold over the mountains.

The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.

Photos of this place1 images

  • Uonuma, Niigata · Autumn

Local specialties to try

Onigiri made with Uonuma Koshihikari rice

At Ichibaya, next to Koide Fish Market, they cook up freshly harvested Uonuma Koshihikari rice and make onigiri with plenty of filling. I’d love to stop for a meal once I’m back in town from the mountains. I’d savor each bite of the fresh rice while telling them about the morning I spent watching the clouds.

Highlights

Clouds spilling over the ridge

Fog forms around Okutadami and Ginzan-daira, gathers into a sea of clouds, and spills over the mountain ridge. When I saw that white stream flowing down the valley, I forgot all about the map in my hand.

A short walk from National Route 352 opens onto the valley

The trailhead for Mount Echigo-Komagatake is at Shiori Pass. I like how, after driving up to the pass, a short walk takes me from looking up at the mountains to looking out across the valley.

Road and trail details

Shiori Pass trailhead to Viewpoint 1

Approximate walking time from the car park
About 5 minutes on foot
Trailhead elevation
About 1,065 m

Take the trail from the car park beside National Route 352. The elevation shown is for the trailhead. I walked with my map and stopped where the valley came into view.

It takes about 5 minutes each way along the trail. I set aside time for the drive up to the pass and for watching the clouds at dawn.