Old Amagi Tunnel A Moment in Autumn: I Stopped to Look Up at the Stone Arch

After leaving the car and walking along the forest path, I heard the leaves crunch underfoot. Sunlight slipped between the trees, and fallen leaves covered the gravel, too. Holding the ends of my cardigan in both hands, I looked up—and there was a huge stone arch on my right. I found myself wanting to take in its curve before taking another step.

Up close, the arch wasn’t one smooth wall; I could make out the shape of each stone. Moss clung to the stone wall at the side, catching the light, too. I traced the joints between the stones from one end, then found myself looking up again halfway through. The entrance I knew from photos was right in front of me, solid and full of depth.

Inside, little lights stretched in a line toward the back of the tunnel. When I looked closely, I could make out the stones near the entrance, then the deeper darkness beyond them. I’d glance back at the bright leaves outside, then find myself wanting another look inside. Still holding the edge of my cardigan, I kept looking back and forth.

Completed in 1904, this stone road tunnel is 445.5m long. It’s also associated with Yasunari Kawabata’s novel The Dancing Girl of Izu. As I looked at the entrance, I wondered if people who passed through here long ago had looked up at the same stones. For a moment, the story’s title and the road in front of me seemed to belong together.

If you’re exploring Amagi, I’d love to try the wasabi soft serve at Amagi-goe Roadside Station. It’s vanilla soft serve topped with freshly grated wasabi, so you get sweetness and a fresh wasabi kick in the same bite. As I imagined taking a bite after the walk, I started planning my detour for the day. I want to make time for both the tunnel and a snack.

Before heading back, I looked over the arch one more time, from the top of the curve all the way down to the stones at its base. At first, I was drawn to the dark entrance; now I remember the way the stones fit together and even the moss along the side. If you visit the Old Amagi Tunnel in autumn, start by walking through the woods. I think I’ll remember the crunch of leaves along with the shape of those stones.