Kamikitayama and Kawakami villages, Nara Prefecture
Driving the Odaigahara Driveway Tighten your pack straps at the end of the road, then head into the autumn forest
I’d been looking forward to both the mountain drive and the walk through the forest beyond. Shouldering my backpack in the Odaigahara car park made me even more eager to head into the woods. The cool air of mid-October brushed my cheeks as I set off.
Here’s the story of the day I walked through Higashi-Odai’s forest in mid-October.
AutumnMid-October
There was still more forest to explore when the drive ended
I turned off National Route 169 onto the road to Odaigahara. As the road climbed from the streamside toward the ridge, I felt more and more like I was deep in the mountains. Keeping my eyes on the road and my hands on the wheel, I couldn’t wait to step out and breathe the mountain air at the car park. I’d been looking forward all day to a walk in the mountains in mid-October.
Once I’d parked at the end of the road, I could see autumn trees around the wooden building. When I opened the door, cold air brushed my cheeks. I was glad I’d brought my jacket. Just getting out of the car changed my whole mood; I hadn’t even started walking, and I already wanted to head straight into the forest.
I tugged both shoulder straps until the backpack sat snug against my back. Usually, I take in the scenery from the car; today I was setting off on foot to see what lay beyond. I laughed at myself for checking my boot laces in the car park. When I’m excited about a day out, I put extra care into even the little things before setting off.
Once I stepped into the forest at Higashi-Odai, even the sound of my footsteps changed. I stopped between the trees and looked up. The branches and leaves were so much closer than they’d looked from the car park. I started noticing details I’d never have spotted from the road, and before I knew it, my pace had slowed.
I’ve heard the view from the Hidegatake observation deck takes in the Omine and Daiko mountain ranges and the Kumano Sea. Just imagining the view that lay ahead made the forest trail part of the pleasure of the journey. As I wondered how far I might walk today, I kept taking in the trees one by one.
By the time I returned to the car park, even the spot where I’d tightened my backpack straps that morning already felt like a fond memory. It was the same building I’d seen on arrival, but after walking through the forest, it felt good to be back. I sank into the driver’s seat and let out a long breath. I left already wanting to drive back up into these mountains.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
Photos of this place1 images
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Kamikitayama and Kawakami villages, Nara Prefecture · Autumn
Local food to try along the way
Persimmon-leaf sushi from Yoshinoji
Along National Route 169 in Oyodo Town, you’ll find the Sakura Yoshino branch of Kakinoha-zushi Honpo Tanaka. It’s a recommended stop for trying a local specialty on the way to Odaigahara. I like to leave myself one more treat to look forward to on the way back from the mountain.
Highlights
A drive up to the ridge
The road runs from Obatani on National Route 169 to the Odaigahara car park. I loved how it changed from following a stream to winding along the ridge; even after reaching the end, I wanted to stay up in the mountains a little longer.
A high plateau where rivers begin
Odaigahara is the source of the Miyagawa, Kumano, and Kinokawa rivers. Thinking back to the air I breathed up on the mountain, I can’t help imagining the water flowing from here all the way to the sea.
The road and walking trails
From the National Route 169 junction to the Odaigahara car park
- Driveway length
- About 20 km
- Mount Hidegatake elevation
- 1,695m
You can drive as far as the car park. From there, you can reach Mount Hidegatake—the highest peak in Odaigahara—on foot.
The driveway length comes from the Japan Travel Bureau’s tourism resource database, and Mount Hidegatake’s elevation is from the Ministry of the Environment’s guide. I’ve listed the summit elevation separately from the car park and the road’s elevation change.
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