Driving to Kyusuikei Gorge (Thirteen Bends) After the Thirteen Bends, step out of the car for dango at Katsura Chaya and an autumn view

On the drive to Kyusuikei Gorge in early November, the road kept winding. The stretch is also known as the Thirteen Bends. Keeping my eyes on the road and steering through the curves, I chatted with my driving friend: “Once we get there, let’s take our time with the autumn leaves.”

Once I was out of the car, I looked into the valley. On the cliff to my right, trees grew in layers. It was lovely to look into the distance, then bring my gaze back to the leaves nearby. I straightened the sleeve of my denim jacket and took in the view with my friend for a while.

At Katsura Chaya, I chose a skewer of dango grilled over charcoal. When I brought the skewer to my mouth, the dango still seemed hot, so I blew on them for a moment. I didn’t want to rush through them; while they cooled, my eyes kept wandering back to the valley.

The first bite filled my mouth with sweetness and the aroma of the grill. I told my friend, “I love little detours like this,” then let the dango cool for another moment. Even in the middle of a long drive, it’s lovely how unhurried things can feel once you step out of the car.

Cliffs and primeval forest stretch for about 2 km through Kyusuikei Gorge. Looking out over that expanse, I savoured the last of my dango. On the way back, I chose a song that suited the mountain road so I’d remember where I’d seen the autumn leaves, then returned to the car.