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PROJECT ZQQ
English

Kunigami Village, Okinawa Prefecture

Driving to Kayauchi Banta Beyond the brim of my hat, the whole cove came into view

On a clear July morning, I pulled on a white shirt and headed for the lookout. Holding down the brim of my straw hat, I let my eyes travel from the breakwater below to the distant coast. The cove and the coastline beyond it were all visible at once. Each time the breeze caught my shirt, I found myself taking in the view all over again.

A story about looking out over the cove on a summer morning, holding on to my hat. I hope you enjoy the shape of the coastline from up high and the story of the wind behind the name.

View from Kayauchi Banta over the cove, breakwater, shallow reef and wooded coastline. At lower right, the narrator, wearing a pale blue dress and white shirt, smiles as she holds her straw hat with both hands.

SummerA clear July morning

Holding on to my hat as I traced the coastline

I got out of the car and walked to where I could see the sea. The July morning light was so bright that I tipped my straw hat down a little. There were trees beside the path, and then, suddenly, the view opened up. The moment I saw the cove and breakwater below, I stopped in my tracks. I hadn’t expected the path to open onto a view like this.

As I traced the breakwater with my eyes, the water it enclosed looked small. Beyond it, I could make out the shallows, with the seabed visible; farther out, the coastline stretched away into the distance. I’d been taking it in piece by piece, but when I lifted my eyes, the whole scene came together. I wanted to take in the vastness of the sea just like this.

A gust lifted the brim of my hat. I held it down with one hand, then brought the other up to help. I had to laugh at myself, standing there with both hands on my hat. I let the breeze play with the hem of my white shirt and kept looking out over the cove.

Banta means ‘cliff’ in the local dialect. Kayauchi Banta is said to take its name from a story about bundles of thatch scattering in the wind after they were thrown. A moment ago, I’d only said the name aloud. After holding on to my hat, the story behind it suddenly felt much closer.

From the 70m cliff, I slowly followed the wooded coastline with my eyes. On the road, I’d been focused on the next bend. Here, I could see beyond it. I picked out one stretch of coastline jutting into the sea and wondered what the road might be like there. It made me picture my next drive.

Just as I thought it was time to head back and let go of my hat, the brim started fluttering again. I held it down once more and took one last look at the cove. I’d love to pick up a doughnut from Kunigami on the way back, but right now, I want to stay out in this breeze a little longer. I let my gaze travel as far as the distant coast, then straightened the hem of my white shirt.

The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.

Photos of this place1 images

  • Kunigami Village, Okinawa Prefecture · Summer

Local treats to try on your trip

Kunigami Donuts

A moist doughnut made in collaboration by cake shops in Kunigami Village. It’s featured in the souvenir guide for Roadside Station Yuiyui Kunigami. After looking out over the sea, I’d love to savour the gentle sweetness of the plain doughnut and keep the afterglow of the trip with me a little longer.

Highlights

A 70m cliff overlooking the cove

The lookout lies at the top of the old road through Ginama village. From here, you can look back at the coastline you drove along, from the breakwater below to the distant shore.

The wind behind the name Kayauchi Banta

It’s said to take its name from bundles of thatch scattered by strong winds. As I stood there holding on to my hat, it felt as if the wind from that old story were blowing today, too—and it made me want to say the name again.

Road and location information

Getting to Kayauchi Banta and the lookout

From Naha Airport by car (local roads)
3 hours
Cliff height
70m

The lookout is reached by heading up the old road in Aza Ginama, Kunigami Village. Once you’re out of the car, take your time looking out over the cove.

Okinawa Story lists the drive time on local roads and the height of the cliff. The tunnel to Cape Hedo has made getting to the east coast easier, too. It makes me want to add this lookout to a trip around northern Okinawa.