Mutsu, Aomori Prefecture
Taking in Mutsu's city lights from Mount Kamafuse Observatory A swallowtail of lights spreading along the bay
From up on the mountain, even the way Mutsu's lights gather is fascinating. One September night, I stood at the lookout holding my coat closed, looking back and forth between the shape of the city and Mutsu Bay. Here's how it looked.
Here's the story of my September night at Mount Kamafuse Observatory and the view I saw there.
AutumnA September night
A swallowtail of lights spreading along the bay
The city lights spread out before me as soon as I stepped onto the viewing area. The September night air slipped in at my cuffs, and I stopped with both hands holding my coat closed. Right beside all that brightness was the wide, dark bay. The moment I saw the line between them, it suddenly hit me that I'd made it all the way up the mountain. I drew in a deep breath before I could say a word.
The city lights seen from Mount Kamafuse Observatory are known as the “Light Swallowtail.” Before I came, I'd imagined the lights would trace the outline of a butterfly. But in front of me were ribbons of light following the roads and bright clusters across the city. I wondered where the wings were meant to be and took my time looking over the whole view.
When I looked back toward the bay, I could trace the lights along the shore more clearly. Looking from there across the whole city, I could see how it seemed to fan out on either side. Oh, so those are the wings. I'd thought I was searching for one shape, but I realized I was following the lights of people living their lives below. That made me love the nightscape even more.
I took a photo, looked at the screen, then raised my eyes again. It all fit on that little screen, but out here both the bay and the city felt so much bigger. I started to take another shot, then lowered my hand. I wanted to keep looking at it at this scale. I pulled my coat closed again and stayed by the railing for a while.
I heard the observatory sits at 785m on Mount Kamafuse. That night I was completely taken with the city and the bay, but apparently you can also see Lake Usori and the Hakkoda Mountains in daylight. I wonder how the nightscape would look after I'd seen the lay of the land in daylight. I was already starting to picture when I'd come back.
I started toward the building, thinking it was time to leave, then turned to look at the city one more time. It was strange how each little light felt closer now than when I'd been searching for a shape. When I went back down into town, I'd be heading right back into those lights. The thought made it hard to leave. I traced the bay's edge with my eyes, then finally straightened my coat collar.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
Local specialty
Ominato Maritime Self-Defense Force Curry
Restaurants around Mutsu also serve the curries offered aboard ships and other vessels at the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force's Ominato Base. Every unit has its own recipe. I'd like to have it for lunch before heading up to see the nightscape, wondering what flavours I'll discover that day.
Highlights
Wings traced in city lights
The nightscape is known as the Light Swallowtail. I liked taking my time following the lights along the roads and bay instead of hunting for a shape. Little by little, the city in front of me began to look like wings, and even that slow reveal became part of what I loved.
A wider view of the peninsula by day
Mount Kamafuse is the highest peak on the Shimokita Peninsula, and from the observatory you can see Lake Usori and Mutsu Bay. I came at night, so next time I want to stand here in the daytime and watch the same city darken.
Road information
Access road to Mount Kamafuse Observatory
A drive from Mutsu into the mountains to the observatory. I'd want to leave plenty of time to take in the city and bay once I got there.
If you're going up to see the nightscape, make time for the drive up and for taking in the view after you arrive. I wanted to find the shape of Mutsu, so I slowly followed the shoreline with my eyes.
More Spot Guides
If you enjoyed this story, you might like these places too. I've gone back to each of them in different seasons, again and again.
