Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture
Owakudani An ordinary egg in a black shell
After watching steam rise from the mountainside, I found myself staring at the black egg in my hand. This is the story of a winter day at Owakudani when I stopped halfway through peeling it.
Read on for my story about eating a black egg at Owakudani in winter, and a look at the sights around the steam vents.
WinterJanuary
One more look before the first bite
When I parked and stepped outside, the wind felt cold against my cheeks. A volcanic plume was rising from the mountainside, much closer than I'd expected. In the cold winter air, the mountain seemed like the only thing still in motion. I pulled my coat closed and watched the view for a while.
The longer I watched, the more I wanted to try the black egg I’d been looking forward to. When I picked one up, its shell really was black. I’d seen them in photos, but with one right in front of me, I couldn’t help wondering what I’d find inside once I peeled it. I made a small crack first, then gently started peeling from the edge.
The white inside looked just like that of any ordinary boiled egg. Wait, is the inside completely ordinary? I paused halfway through peeling and looked back and forth between the egg and its black shell. I meant to peel it so I could eat it, but before I knew it, I was completely absorbed in studying it.
The shell was the only part that was black, but somehow even the first bite felt special. When I finally tried it, the familiar taste was comforting. A moment ago, I’d been looking up at the mountain; now I was completely absorbed in a tiny egg. I love that even a day spent taking in a grand landscape can hold a little pleasure like this, too.
When I looked toward the mountain again after finishing, the plume had changed shape since I last saw it. The view kept shifting even while I was absorbed in the egg. The shell in my hand felt like a little souvenir from my time here. I took one more look before throwing it away, then tidied up.
Even after I got back in the car, I kept thinking about the moment the white showed through the black shell. Owakudani’s scenery was incredible, but I was happy to bring that little surprise home with me, too. I looked ahead and gripped the steering wheel; even the drive back seemed like it would be fun.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
Local specialties and food stops
Black eggs
Owakudani’s famous black eggs are made using geothermal heat and a chemical reaction involving volcanic gases. When boiled in the hot spring pool, substances in the water cling to the shells’ many pores, turning them black. Halfway through peeling one, I stopped to compare the white with the shell, and I was having fun before I’d even taken a bite.
Highlights
Mt. Kanmuri-ga-take beyond the volcanic plume
The landscape at Owakudani was shaped by activity from the Hakone volcano. They say Mt. Kanmuri-ga-take was formed by a small pyroclastic flow about 2,900 years ago. Once I knew the story behind the mountain’s present shape, I found myself even more curious about the peak I’d been gazing up at with an egg in my hand.
The plume keeps changing shape as it rises
At Owakudani, volcanic terrain stretched out around me. After parking, I watched steam rise from the slope for a while. I’d expected a quiet mountain scene, but there was always movement right in front of me, and I could hardly look away.
Route and access
Getting to Owakudani
- Destination
- Owakudani Kurotamago-kan
- Name to search for on the map
- Hakone Ropeway Owakudani Station
If you’re driving, enter either “Owakudani Kurotamago-kan” or “Hakone Ropeway Owakudani Station” as your destination in your car’s navigation system. I was looking forward to the mountain views and a black egg. I even liked taking my time deciding which to enjoy first once I arrived.
The map below opens with Owakudani Kurotamago-kan as the destination.
More Spot Guides
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