Takachiho Gorge I Stopped Rowing for a Moment

As I dipped my oar into the water, the boat glided slowly forward. The rock walls of Takachiho Gorge felt much closer than they had in the photos. I kept rowing, craning my neck and wondering just how far up I’d have to look to see the top.

Long vertical lines ran down the face of the wall. Some were straight; others curved and fanned out, making the wall seem to change shape from one section to the next. So this is what columnar jointing looks like. From the water, its scale was a little overwhelming.

The sound of the water grew clearer. I turned toward it and saw Manai Falls. Water tumbled down from above and burst into spray below. I watched for a while with my hands still on the oars. A moment earlier, I’d been thinking about when to take my next stroke, but I’d completely forgotten all about it.

As I took in the view, it began to feel a little strange that I was sitting in a boat at all. I’d driven here, and now I was out on the water. The patch of sky between the rock walls was so small, and the view was nothing like what I usually see on a drive.

I started rowing again so I could look around a little more. This time I noticed the ripples on the water as well as the rocks. As I listened to the waterfall and kept moving the oars, the tension gradually eased out of my shoulders.

I wanted to tell someone all about what I’d seen here once I got home. The waterfall and rock walls were huge, but what stayed with me most was that moment looking up with the oars still in my hands. I was searching for words when I realized I’d stopped rowing again. Honestly, it was hard to take in the view and keep rowing at the same time.