Annaka and Usui Pass, Gunma
Usui Pass (Megane Bridge and Old National Route 18) I spent longer admiring the autumn leaves than crossing the bridge
I’d looked up at Megane Bridge from below; now I was crossing it on foot. I can still picture both the immense brick arches and the autumn leaves I saw from the bridge.
In early November, I stood on Megane Bridge and gazed out over the valley in autumn colour. I’d take a few steps, then stop again—the view beyond the railing kept drawing me back. More than once, before I’d even reached the other side, I found myself thinking, “I’m so glad I came.”
AutumnEarly November
Autumn in the valley beyond the railing
When I looked up at Megane Bridge from below, it was so much bigger than I’d imagined that my mouth fell open. I knew you could walk over the brick arches, but I still couldn’t quite believe there was a path so high above me. I took in the mountains in early November as I headed up to the bridge.
At the top, I found myself standing right on the arches I’d been looking up at from below. A moment ago, I’d been gazing up at them; now I was looking down into the valley. I rested a hand on the railing and looked out at the mountains, stretching away in autumn colour. My astonishment at the bridge itself turned into sheer wonder at the view.
I meant to keep walking, but I couldn’t tear myself away from the view. I finally set off, only to stop again. I’d come to cross the bridge, but I didn’t want to reach the other side just yet. I may have spent more time looking than walking.
I let go of the railing and looked ahead along the path. Remembering that the bridge was built in Meiji 25, I could picture the brickwork I’d looked up at earlier. I was standing on a bridge built so long ago, looking at today’s autumn leaves. That thought suddenly made me happy, and I took another slow step.
After walking a little farther, I looked back towards the valley again. My friend would probably have laughed and said, “You’re still here?” Yeah, she probably would have. But I didn’t want to rush this view. I rested my hand on the railing again and let my eyes wander over the mountains.
On the way back, I looked up at the bridge from below again and wanted to find the spot where I’d been standing. The bridge that had first amazed me with its size was now also where I’d stopped to watch the autumn leaves. What I remember most about my detour to Usui Pass isn’t that I made it across, but how much I didn’t want it to end.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
Local specialty
Yokokawa's Tōge no Kamameshi
Yokokawa is known as the birthplace of Tōge no Kamameshi, a local rice dish. Oginoya Yokokawa is a drive-in in Yokokawa, Matsuida-machi, Annaka City. After being so absorbed in the autumn leaves from the bridge, I was already looking forward to choosing a meal when I got back to Yokokawa. After all that autumn scenery, I’d love to try a local speciality too.
Highlights
Megane Bridge: look up, then walk across
Megane Bridge is a four-span brick arch bridge, 31m high above the riverbed. The bridge is part of the Apt Road walking trail. From below, I stopped to take in the scale of the arches; from above, I stopped again to gaze across the wide valley.
A bridge built in Meiji 25
Construction began in April of Meiji 25 and was completed that December. As I stood on this bridge, built so long ago, and looked at the autumn scenery, I felt a different kind of wonder from the one I’d felt looking up at the brickwork. I wanted to savour every step across it.
Road details
From Matsuida-Myōgi IC to Megane Bridge
- Driving and walking distances
- About 15 minutes by car / 5-minute walk from the Megane Bridge car park
- Where to take in the view on foot
- 123 steps up to the bridge
Megane Bridge is about a 15-minute drive from Matsuida-Myōgi IC on the Jōshin'etsu Expressway. From the Megane Bridge car park, it’s a 5-minute walk; then climb 123 steps to the bridge for views of the mountains. I looked up at the bridge from below, then stopped again to take in the view from above. I love seeing how the view changes depending on where I stand.
Leave your car in the Megane Bridge car park and walk to the bridge. First look up at the brick arches from below, then climb the steps and head up onto the bridge. Every time I saw it from a different spot, I wanted to stop and take another slow look.
More Spot Guides
If you enjoyed this story, you might like these places too. I've gone back to each of them in different seasons, again and again.