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Hakodate, Hokkaido

Mount Hakodate The city lights stretched between the seas

One January night, I took in the view from the summit of Mount Hakodate: the sea on either side and city lights stretching between them. Read about the moment I tried to put it into words, then fell quiet.

On a winter night, you can take in the line between the dark sea and the city lights. As I traced its shape with my eyes, I almost forgot it would soon be time to leave.

A woman in a winter coat, seen from behind at an angle, gazes at Hakodate’s night view between Hakodate Bay and the Tsugaru Strait, her hands clasped in front of her chest.

WinterA January night

“Wow” was all I could say

The cold air brushed my cheeks as I reached the summit of Mount Hakodate. On a January night, I tucked my chin into my coat collar and turned towards the city. The moment the lights spread out before me, everything I’d been thinking about slipped away.

The city was framed by the sea on both sides. I could see the strip of lights narrowing in the middle, then widening again beyond it. I’d seen this shape in photos, but standing there, I could feel the darkness of the sea, too. I’d meant to look only at the city, but I couldn’t take my eyes off what surrounded it.

I said, “Amazing,” but no other words came. With my hands clasped at my chest, I stared at the part where the city narrowed. I wondered what I could say to describe it, then decided to leave the explaining until later. I wanted to keep looking a little longer.

Before heading up, I’d told myself I’d take some good photos. But I got so caught up in the view that I hadn’t even pulled out my camera. For a second I wondered, what did I come here for? Then I laughed at myself: to look at the view, of course. It was a view I wanted to remember before taking a photo.

I looked from the edge of the city out to the sea, then brought my gaze back to the lights. The street I’d been walking earlier was somewhere down there, too. Roads and buildings I’d seen up close became part of the view of the whole city from up here. Instead of an unfamiliar nightscape, I felt a little closer to the Hakodate I’d walked through earlier that day.

Before heading back, I looked out over the city a little longer. I slowly unclasped my hands, but still couldn’t bring myself to start walking. Once I got back down, I’d be walking among the lights I’d seen from the summit. I thought I’d probably come to love those streets, too, and traced the shape of the city with my eyes one last time.

The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.

Photos of this place1 images

  • Hakodate, Hokkaido · Winter

Local specialties

A seafood bowl at Hakodate Morning Market

Hakodate Morning Market Plaza, in front of Hakodate Station, has a food court where you can enjoy seafood bowls and more. If I combined a night-view trip with a morning stroll around town, I’d love to stop here for a seafood bowl. After seeing the city from above, I want to make time to enjoy the flavors of Hakodate down below, too.

Highlights

A city framed by the sea on both sides

From Mount Hakodate, you can see the city between the Tsugaru Strait and Hakodate Bay. The city narrows in the middle, with the sea spreading out on either side. As I followed the lights, I was overwhelmed by the thought that people call a place like this home.

Where the city lights meet the dark sea

At night, you can clearly see the line where the city lights meet the dark sea. I love that you can take in the vastness of the sea, too, not just the lights. With my hands clasped at my chest, I traced that line with my eyes again and again.

A view from 334m above sea level

Mount Hakodate stands 334m above sea level. From the summit, you can look out over the city. I had no idea what the view would be like when I heard the number; when I finally saw it spread out before me, I was speechless for a while.

How to get to the summit

To the summit of Mount Hakodate

To the base station
10 minutes on foot from Jujigai tram stop
Elevation of Mount Hakodate
334m

For a winter visit to Mount Hakodate, take the ropeway up to the summit. The base station is a 10-minute walk from Jujigai tram stop; from there, the ride to the summit station takes 3 minutes. Splitting your time between a walk through town and the view from the summit lets you enjoy Hakodate from two different vantage points. Even after I went back down, I kept thinking about the shape of the city from above.

The destination is the summit of Mount Hakodate. Open the map below to see the location. After taking in the city, I found myself looking forward to heading back down into those lights.