Shimanami Kaido | From Kirosan, I looked back at the bridge I'd just crossed

This autumn, I loved crossing the bridges and then looking back at them from Kirosan. The road stretching out before me brought the whole drive back to mind.

A woman sits sideways on a narrow metal staircase on Kirosan at dusk, hands folded over her knees as she watches the lights of the Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge.

AutumnAt dusk in autumn

Hands folded in my lap as I watched the bridge lights

As I drove across the Shimanami Kaido, I kept my hands on the wheel and my eyes on the road ahead. I loved the feeling of crossing over the sea, and looked forward to taking my time with the view once I'd parked. On Oshima, I headed up Kirosan. When I reached the lookout, the bridge I'd just crossed stretched away across the strait.

As dusk fell, I could make out a few trees on the mountain beginning to change color. From above, I could see how the bridge connected the islands—something I hadn't noticed while driving. “So that's what I crossed,” I thought. As I traced the bridge with my eyes, I found myself wondering what lay farther ahead. I wanted to stay and watch a little longer.

I sat sideways on the narrow metal staircase and folded my hands over my knees. The view spread out before me, but sitting there, I felt as if it were just me and the bridge. As my shoulders relaxed and I took in the view, the road I'd traveled that day slowly came back to me.

The bridge was lit up that evening. As I watched the lights stretch over the sea, I realized I'd only just driven across that road, yet I felt as though I'd come such a long way. I should've been thinking about the drive home, but the thought of crossing again won out. I folded my hands in my lap again and watched in silence for a while.

Just as I was thinking it was about time to find dinner in Imabari, yakibuta tamago meshi came to mind. I imagined the egg with its soft yolk and sweet-and-savory sauce, and my stomach was about to growl. A moment ago I'd been transfixed by the bridge; now I was looking forward to dinner, too. Before standing up, though, I took one more look at the bridge.

I stood up and looked back. The bridge lights still stretched across the sea. It made me happy to see the route I'd driven from so far away. Back in the car, I'd set my eyes on the road again and carry on with the day's drive. Even after I get home, I think I'll be glad I came to the Shimanami Kaido whenever this view comes back to me.

The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.

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Oshima, Imabari City, Ehime · Autumn

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Local specialty

Imabari Yakibuta Tamago Meshi

Imabari yakibuta tamago meshi is a rice bowl topped with roast pork and an egg with a soft yolk, seasoned with pepper and a sweet-and-savory sauce. After taking in the bridge, I'm looking forward to a meal in Imabari, too. Just picturing myself breaking the yolk and digging in makes me hungry.

Highlights

Three suspension bridges across the strait

The Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge comprises three suspension bridges that link Oshima and Imabari, with a combined length of 4.1km. It's said to be the world's first triple suspension bridge, with all three spans aligned in a straight line. From above, I followed the road I'd driven all the way into the distance and felt my heart swell.

The bridge and tidal currents from Kirosan

Kirosan Observatory Park sits at the southern tip of Oshima, at an elevation of 307.8m. From there, you can look out over the Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge and the tidal currents in the strait. I followed the bridge with my eyes, struck by how different it looked from behind the wheel.

Road details

A stop at Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge and Kirosan

Total length of the Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge: Total length 4.1km
Elevation of Kirosan: 307.8m

The observatory park is at 487-4 Minamiura, Yoshiumi-cho, Imabari City. It's about 10 minutes from Oshima-Minami IC on the Shimanami Kaido. I turned off the bridge route and headed up to Kirosan, then parked and took in the view.

The map below opens Kirosan Observatory Park. Try adding it to your route as a stop after crossing the bridge.

More Spot Guides

If you enjoyed this story, you might like these places too. I've gone back to each of them in different seasons, again and again.

Hino, Tottori Prefecture Akechi Pass At dawn in November, what I wanted to see from Akechi Pass was a sea of clouds covering the valley and Mount Daisen beyond it. I was so sleepy I’d been hiding my mouth in my sleeve, but when the morning light touched the mountain’s snow, I was wide awake. I took my time enjoying the happiness of having got up early and come all this way.

Kure, Hiroshima Prefecture Akinada Bridge Once we’ve crossed to the island, let’s stop at the Shirasaki Garden before driving farther. In spring, I’d make it our first break, enjoying the flowers beside the paths and the sea together.

Takahashi, Okayama Prefecture Bitchu Matsuyama Castle Sea of Clouds Observatory From a wooden deck on the ridge opposite, you can see Bitchu Matsuyama Castle atop Komatsu-yama. At dawn in November, just the castle roof peeked above the sea of clouds, and I gave myself a little mental fist pump. Those 2 alarms were worth it.

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Maps & Sources

Open Kirosan Observatory Park on the map (opens in a new tab)

Official sources

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