A visit to Tōmiyama Observatory Hyuganatsu on a deck overlooking the bay

When I reached the wooden deck, the sea opened up beyond the railing. It was a late-April afternoon, and the first thing I did at Tōmiyama Observatory was look across the bay toward the town on the other side. I could see the green hills in the foreground, buildings along the coast and mountains beyond them, all in one sweep. The view was so much broader than I’d imagined from the map that I even forgot to take out the snack I’d brought.

I stood just inside the railing, looking out in my floral dress and light cardigan. Tōmiyama sits about 308 m above sea level. The view felt so different from seeing the sea up close; from here, I wanted to follow the curve of the bay all the way around. As my eyes traced the coastline, I could see the town and green hills blending together, and I stood there quietly for a while.

After taking in the view, I pulled out a small container of Hyuganatsu, sliced with the white pith left on. I usually removed that part from citrus, so hearing that it tastes better left on had stuck with me. Since I’d brought it all this way, I picked up a slice just as it was and slowly brought it to my mouth.

The sweetness of the white pith and the tang of the flesh came through together in the first bite. They say Hyuganatsu was first discovered in Miyazaki Prefecture. Eating a local fruit while looking out over the sea made even a break at the observatory one of the pleasures of the trip. Before my next slice, I looked up across the bay once more.

Tōmiyama is surrounded by a forest park where you can enjoy cherry blossoms, magnolias and azaleas in spring. Today, I was more in the mood to take in the green of the trees and the wide expanse of sea than the flowers. I wanted to see both, but with such a wide view in front of me, I couldn’t help lingering here a little longer first. There were fewer and fewer slices in my container, but I didn’t feel like hurrying to finish them.

I ate the last slice and put away the empty container. Still, before leaving the deck, I took one more look along the coastline. I’d come for the sea, but I was glad to know I’d remember the town, the hills and the mountains as well. I knew the taste of the Hyuganatsu I ate on Tōmiyama that spring would stay with me, just like the wide-open view.