Numata City, Gunma Prefecture
A Drive to Fukiware Falls Water Plunging into a Rift in the Rock and Spring Greenery
Fukiware Falls formed as water eroded the bedrock of the Katashina River. April–May is when fresh green leaves and snowmelt come together. I came wearing a light beige coat to listen to the water on a spring morning.
Here’s my story of a spring morning amid the fresh green leaves, watching water pour into a cleft in the rock and thinking about the old Dragon Palace legend.
SpringAn April–May morning among the fresh green leaves
The morning I watched the water and was lost for words
The moment I saw Fukiware Falls from the walking path, I thought it was nothing like any waterfall I knew. Instead of dropping from a high cliff, the river spreads across the rock and plunges into a cleft. The water comes close, then disappears from sight beyond the cleft. I kept following it with my eyes, wondering where it went, until I realized I was standing there with my hands clasped at my waist, unable to move.
I came in a pale pink dress and a beige coat. The morning air was still cool, but across the river, fresh leaves were opening on the trees. The rush of water never stopped, and I even took my time straightening my sleeve. I thought I’d come for the spring scenery, but the sound and movement of the water were what took hold of me first.
I’d heard that Fukiware Falls formed when water wore away the softer parts of the bedrock, widening the cracks. That dramatic split in the rock is what gave the falls their name. Seeing what the water had carved right in front of me made it feel so much more real than reading about it. I couldn’t get over the fact that water is still flowing through that same spot.
There’s also a legend that the pool beneath the falls connects to the Dragon Palace. Villagers supposedly borrowed trays and bowls from the Dragon Palace for celebrations, then returned them afterward. Watching the water disappear into the cleft, I could see why people might imagine another world beyond it. Not being able to see where the water goes makes me even more curious.
I’d come after hearing how powerful the falls become when the spring snowmelt rushes in, but seeing them for myself had my heart pounding just from standing there. Even after snapping a photo, I couldn’t bring myself to look back at the screen right away. I looked toward the sound, followed the white water as it plunged, and took in the shape of the rock again. I wonder if the photos alone will bring this sound back to me once I’m home.
After taking in the falls, I had my eye on the cold soba with seasonal vegetable tempura at Mumon, a soba and udon restaurant in Hirakawa, Tone Town. The crisp tempura and cold soba gradually brought my attention back to lunch after I’d been so absorbed in the sound of the water. My eyes and ears had taken in the falls, and my stomach was happy too. I felt like I’d made the most of spring in Numata.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
Something to Try
Cold Soba and Seasonal Vegetable Tempura in Hirakawa, Tone Town
Mumon, a soba and udon restaurant in Hirakawa, Tone Town, serves cold soba with tempura made from seasonal vegetables. After seeing the falls, I look forward to a lunch of crisp tempura and soba. As I savored each bite, I could feel myself relaxing after getting so caught up in the sound of the water.
Highlights
A waterfall pouring through a giant cleft in the rock
Numata City Tourism Association describes Fukiware Falls as 7m high and more than 30m wide. As I watched the water plunge into a cleft carved into the bedrock, I was more overwhelmed by how close it felt than by the numbers.
The legend of trays and bowls from the Dragon Palace
A legend says the pool below the falls leads to the Dragon Palace, where villagers borrowed trays and bowls for every celebration and returned them afterward. When I looked into the cleft where the water disappears, I could understand why a story like that might have taken shape.
Road Details
The National Route 120 section from Numata IC to Fukiware Falls
- Length
- About 16km
This road heads from Numata IC toward Oze. Once I arrive, I want to get out of the car and take in the fresh green leaves and the sound of the water.
The Numata City Tourism Association access guide lists about 16km from Numata IC to Fukiware Falls. Once I got there, I couldn’t take my eyes off the water spilling into the cleft in the rock.
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