A sweeping view, then honey soft serve A July afternoon at Kaiyodai: pastures, a wide horizon, and a snack break

On a July afternoon, I drove from central Nakashibetsu to Kaiyodai. After parking the red car in a bay, I spotted the round observatory at the top of the hill. The steps were right in front of me, and I couldn’t wait to see the view from up there. The summer sky was bright, and the breeze felt lovely as I rolled up the sleeves of my blouse. I tied my cardigan around my waist and set off up the hill.

From the top, I could see long rows of windbreak trees running between the pastures and forming a grid. Following their lines made me realise just how vast the land is. I’d been looking at the grass nearby, but before I knew it, my eyes had wandered all the way to the horizon. Kaiyodai is often described as having a 330-degree view. I wanted to see what was over there too, then a little farther beyond that, and ended up lingering in the same spot for quite a while.

After taking in the view, I picked up the observatory café’s “Happy Honey Soft Serve” and headed back toward the car park. Holding the cone in both hands, I could see honey drizzled over the white soft serve. I took a bite: the creamy milk came through first, then the honey sweetness, and I couldn’t help smiling. Apparently, it’s made with locally produced fresh milk and honey gathered from wildflowers and other blossoms around Shiretoko. There was the treat I’d been hoping to try here.

I took another bite beside the car. The breeze fluttered the hem of my white trousers and stirred the cardigan sleeves tied around my waist. Looking up at the steps and round observatory from below brought the wide view from up there back to mind. It was just a quick snack stop on the drive, but somehow I knew I’d remember it as part of the trip.

After finishing the soft serve, I checked the map for the next road to take. The straight road leading to Kaiyodai is also known as Milk Road. It takes its name from the milk tankers that use the road. After taking in the scenery and enjoying a treat made with local milk, hearing that story gave me another reason to love driving around here. I put the map away and looked up once more at the observatory on the hill as I headed back to the car.