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PROJECT ZQQ
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Shibata City, Niigata Prefecture

A drive through the Higashi-Akatani arched road galleries Shade beneath the arches, sunlight across the road

In June, the Higashi-Akatani arched road galleries make a lovely detour along a mountain road, with concrete arches overhead and greenery beyond their openings. I drove through in my red car and loved the light spilling onto the road and the engine note echoing beneath the arches.

One June morning, I drove into the shadow of an arch on a mountain road in Shibata, Niigata. The air on my cheeks felt different there, and the engine sounded different, too. I kept my eyes on the road as I drove through bands of light and shade.

In early summer, a woman in a cream-colored short-sleeved top drives a red open-top car through the Higashi-Akatani arched road galleries, gripping the wheel with both hands. Concrete arches continue ahead, and light falls onto the road through an opening on the right.

SummerA June morning

Across a band of light, into the next arch's shade

On a June morning, I left Shibata and headed into the mountains along Prefectural Route 335, the Takidani-Kami-Akatani Line. With the roof down on my red car, I headed for the galleries ahead. Both hands on the wheel, eyes on the road, I drove in—and the air on my sunlit cheeks suddenly felt cool.

Ahead of me, concrete arches receded one after another. Openings like windows let light through, laying bright bands across the road. As I drove, one band slipped past, and the next arch's shade fell over me. It was such a different sight from an ordinary mountain road that I found myself sitting a little straighter.

Inside the galleries, the engine sounded louder than before. I kept my eyes on the road, watching the arches continue ahead and the bright exit in the distance. I could feel the air on my bare arms, with the concrete roof above my head. In an open-top car, you can really feel the difference between inside and out.

I learned that this was once part of the freight line for the Akatani Mine. After the railway closed, the route was turned into a road for cars. Now I'm driving where trains once ran. Thinking about that gives the arches ahead a whole new feel.

These galleries work like a roof, shielding the road from snow coming down the mountains. In June, I could see greenery through the openings, with sunlight reaching the pavement. As the bright exit drew closer, the outside air seemed to return. I meant to just drive through, but it became the kind of road I wanted to remember for its sounds and cool air, too.

Once I'm out of the mountains, I want to pick up sasa dango back in Shibata. The ones from Takadaya, made with plenty of mugwort, have caught my eye. I'm looking forward to unwrapping the bamboo leaves while talking about that morning's drive. Little detours like this leave me with more moments to share when I get home.

The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.

Photos of this place1 images

  • Shibata City, Niigata Prefecture · Summer

Local treats to try on your trip

Sasa dango (bamboo-leaf rice dumplings) from Takadaya in Shibata

These sasa dango from Takadaya in Shibata are made with Kogane Mochi rice and mugwort. On my way back from the mountain drive, I want to pick some up to take home as a souvenir, unwrap the bamboo leaves, and enjoy them while thinking back on the morning drive.

Highlights

Sunlight and shade striping the road

The arched galleries let light in through openings along the sides. I kept my eyes on the road as I drove, enjoying the way sunlight and shade alternated around me.

From freight line to road

I learned that this was once the Akatani Mine freight line, and that the route became a road after the railway closed. Knowing trains once passed beneath these arches made the drive feel a little special.

Road and walking details

Prefectural Route 335 Takidani-Kami-Akatani Line · Higashi-Akatani arched road galleries

A string of concrete arches lines the mountain road. I drove through, taking in the light on the road and the engine's echo.

These galleries sit along the mountain road from Uchino-Kura Dam, past Takidani Forest Park, to Kajikawa Flood Control Dam. I planned this detour to take in the early-summer greenery.