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Yamaguchi City and Hagi City, Yamaguchi Prefecture

Exploring Chomonkyo Gorge Taking a pear to Ryugu-buchi for an autumn walk along the Abu River

Chomonkyo Gorge stretches across Yamaguchi City and Hagi City, with the Abu River's rapids and deep pools to take in. The autumn leaves are usually at their best from around late October to mid-November. I walked from Ryugu-buchi in early November and enjoyed the Ato pear I'd brought along.

This is the story of a walk from Ryugu-buchi to the riverside in early November. The pear I brought along gave me something else to look forward to after the walk.

A woman stands in the car park at the entrance to Ryugu-buchi in Chomonkyo Gorge, surrounded by autumn-colored mountains. She holds a pear in both hands and looks at it. She wears a camel coat, a short gray sweatshirt, pink shorts and white sneakers. A red convertible is parked in a space behind her, with a gazebo on the right.

AutumnEarly November

From admiring a pear at the entrance to following the river

At the beginning of November, I parked my red car at Ryugu-buchi. Trees climbed right up the mountainside, so autumn had already surrounded me before I even stepped out. I wore a short sweatshirt and pink shorts under a camel coat. I straightened the black jacket tied around my waist and closed the car door.

Before setting off, I cupped the Ato pear I'd brought in both hands. Its skin was dotted with tiny speckles, and the round pear fit snugly in my hands. I was here to see the river, but I was already grinning at the thought of the pear too. I wanted to eat it right away, but tucked it into my bag to enjoy after the walk instead.

At Ryugu-buchi, I came out beside the river, where trees spread their branches over the still water. I'd been looking up at the mountain leaves in the car park; now the autumn leaves were reflected in the water too. I kept looking up at the trees and down at their reflections until my feet stopped without me noticing. I wanted to stay with that first view a little longer instead of hurrying on.

As I walked along the river, the scene shifted from the quiet of a deep pool to the sound of water rushing beside the rocks. I'd thought I came just to see the leaves, but at Chomonkyo Gorge, even the movement of the water kept catching my attention. I stopped where the current changed and found myself watching all over again. I couldn't believe the same river could look so different from one stretch to the next. I was already looking forward to passing through that spot on my way back.

After a little rest back at the car, I took the pear out of my bag. I bit into a slice, and its juice filled my mouth. Maybe it was because I'd just walked, but that cool juice tasted especially good, and I was reaching for another slice before I knew it. I heard that pears have been grown in Ato, home to Chomonkyo Gorge, since 1906. I came for the scenery, but getting to taste something grown here made the trip feel even more special.

Closing my bag after eating left me with a different kind of contentment than I'd felt holding the pear at the entrance. I got to look up at the mountain, take in the river, then savor a few bites after the walk. I felt closer to Chomonkyo Gorge than I would have on a quick stop just to take photos. On the way back, I kept my eyes on the road and my hands on the wheel, already wishing I could walk here again next autumn.

The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.

Photos of this place1 images

  • Yamaguchi City and Hagi City, Yamaguchi Prefecture · Autumn

Local specialty

Chomonkyo Gorge pears

Ato's Chomonkyo Gorge pears come in many varieties, including Nijisseiki, Hosui and Shinko. According to the pear growers' calendar, Shinko is in season from mid-October to late November. I brought a pear along for my autumn walk too. After the walk, that juicy bite made me glad I'd saved it for later.

Highlights

The Abu River, from still pools to rushing rapids

Along the Chomonkyo Gorge trail, the Abu River winds past rapids, deep pools and striking rock formations. After taking in a stretch of still water, I found myself stopping again where the sound of the river changed. Part of the joy of walking here was looking beyond the trees to watch the current too.

Start your walk at Ryugu-buchi

You can join the trail at either Ryugu-buchi or the roadside station. I parked at Ryugu-buchi and set off on foot. At the entrance, I was holding a pear and looking up at the mountain; once I reached the river, I found myself watching the autumn leaves in the water too.

Ato pears, grown since 1906

In Ato, home to Chomonkyo Gorge, pears have been grown since 1906. There are many varieties, including Nijisseiki and Hosui. I brought a pear along for my walk; knowing pears have been grown here for so long made that slice feel like a special part of my trip.

Trail details

Chomonkyo Gorge Trail

Distance
About 5.1 km

The trail connects the roadside station and Ryugu-buchi. I started at Ryugu-buchi and returned to the same entrance. Each time I stopped where the sound of the river changed, I looked forward to taking in the view again on the way back.

The whole trail is about 5.1 km long. My story follows the river from Ryugu-buchi and back. I enjoyed taking my time wherever a view caught my eye.