Exploring the Hakusan Shirakawa-go White Road Looking up at Fukube-no-Ōtaki from the viewing platform in autumn

One morning in late October, I walked from the Fukube-no-Ōtaki car park to the waterfall viewing platform. Beyond the reddish-brown pavement, I could see a wooden railing, and past it, a towering rock face. The leaves felt much closer than they had from the car, and the water sounded different, too. I slowed my steps as I came nearer.

At the railing, I looked up. A thin white ribbon of water spilled from high above. I’d heard the falls were 86m high. I looked up, down to the rocks below, then up again. They seemed much taller than the number had made them sound, and before I knew it, I was gazing with my head tilted back.

I felt the cool moisture in the air and brought both hands to the cuffs of my coral jacket. I squeezed my eyes shut, and the roar of the falls filled my ears. I laughed before I could help it. When I opened my eyes, I was still in the same place, but the water seemed even closer.

Autumn-colored branches spread out on either side of the falls, though some trees still held on to their leaves. To my left, the road I’d driven curved along the valley. It was lovely to find a place to get out and take in the view on foot after driving through the mountains. I stayed by the railing for a while, watching where the water met the rocks.

Apparently, before the road was built, even locals had a hard time seeing the waterfall. The road I’d just driven had brought me to this view, and suddenly I was looking forward to the drive back, too. I’d love to try Shiramine’s hard tofu on this trip as well. I took my hands out of my sleeves and looked up at the waterfall again from in front of the wooden railing. I followed the water with my eyes, hoping I’d remember it on the way back, then started walking.