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PROJECT ZQQ
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Nakatsugawa, Gifu

I'd love to climb between the giant boulders and look out over the bend in the river An autumn walk to the lookout at the former keep, with chestnut kinton from Nakatsugawa

On the climb, I was focused on the stones right in front of me. Then, from the top, the river came into view in the distance. After making the climb on my own two feet, I loved having a moment to stop and take it all in.

An autumn walk past giant boulders and stone walls, a view of the Kiso River from the former keep, and chestnut kinton to enjoy along the way.

Near the former keep at Naegi Castle Ruins in autumn, a woman in a pale lilac sweater, beige coat and long white socks holds chestnut kinton on a sheet of paper. Beyond the wooden railing and descending steps, the Kiso River curves through the landscape. A bridge stands in the distance on the right, with mountains and a town beyond.

AutumnAn October morning

Climb with your eyes on the stones, then pause to watch the river

On an October morning, I parked the car and set off on foot through the ruins of Naegi Castle. I had chestnut kinton from Nakatsugawa with me, too. As I climbed the stone steps and looked up, I saw stone walls winding around enormous boulders. I hadn't realized the stones could be so different in size. I wanted to stop and look closely at where the rock and the wall met.

At the lookout by the former keep, I looked out across the landscape. The Kiso River wound beyond the wooden railing, with a bridge farther off. The steps back down were right in front of me, making me realize how high I'd climbed. Up close, I'd been watching the stones; here, the whole landscape opened up.

I felt a breeze I'd barely noticed while walking and pulled my coat closer over my sweater. I took one chestnut kinton from my bag and set it on the paper. The little sweet still had the marks left from shaping it, and it looked so cute. Before taking a bite, I lingered over its shape a little longer, watching the river flow.

The first bite left a gentle sweetness and tiny bits of chestnut on my tongue. I'd heard this sweet was made with just chestnuts and sugar, so I wanted to take my time with it. After looking out at that huge landscape, I looked back down at the little piece of chestnut kinton in my hand. In that moment, the wide view and the little sweet captured everything I love about visiting Nakatsugawa in autumn.

I tucked away the paper I'd put the sweet on and took one last look at the river before heading down. Across the Kiso River, the town stretched out into the distance. I might take my time walking back to the car, thinking about the view I just saw. On the way back, I'd like to look at the huge boulders and stone walls that caught my eye on the climb from a different angle.

The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.

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  • Nakatsugawa, Gifu · Autumn

Local specialty

Nakatsugawa chestnut kinton

A signature sweet from Nakatsugawa, made with just chestnuts and sugar. From September to October, when chestnuts are in season, sweets made with freshly harvested chestnuts are also available. I'd love to pick some up in town and bring them along for a walk through the castle ruins.

Highlights

Stone walls built around giant boulders

The stone walls are built around enormous boulders, incorporating the natural rock. As I climb, I'd love to see up close where the boulders meet the stonework.

The former keep site overlooking the Kiso River

There's a lookout at the former keep site. I can look up from the stones I've been watching on the climb, with the river, mountains and town spread out before me.

Route details

Naegi Castle Ruins trail (Sannomaru to the former keep lookout)

Walking time from Sannomaru to the lookout
About 10 minutes
Elevation of the mountain where the castle stood
432m

Leave your car in the car park and follow the path past stone walls and giant boulders to the lookout at the former keep.

The roughly 10-minute estimate is for the walk from Sannomaru. The 432m figure is Takamori-yama's elevation, not the amount of elevation you gain from the car park.