Hakone and Yugawara, Kanagawa Prefecture
Winter at Taikanzan Mount Fuji beyond Lake Ashi and the black egg I brought along
Taikanzan sits on the border between Hakone and Yugawara. From the observation area on its north side, you can see Mount Fuji beyond the outer-rim mountains and Lake Ashi. On a clear January morning, I brought a black egg I’d bought at Owakudani and enjoyed the winter view.
This is the story of a clear January morning spent looking out at Lake Ashi and Mount Fuji. I’ll tell you about the time I spent peeling the black egg I brought along, too.
WinterA clear January morning
Distant Mount Fuji, and the black egg in my hands
When I stepped into the observation area at Taikanzan, ridge after ridge rose in front of me. Lake Ashi appeared between them, with snow-capped Mount Fuji far beyond. I’d come because I’d heard you could see Fuji here, but the landscape stretching out in front of it caught my eye. I’d meant to focus on one mountain, but my attention kept widening to take in the whole view.
I wore a lavender hoodie with a down jacket in a similar shade over it. I’d paired my denim shorts with warm tights, but winter air at this altitude still felt cool against my cheeks. I stopped on the paved observation area and traced Lake Ashi’s outline with my eyes. The lake looked so different from up here that I found myself standing a little taller.
I had the black egg I’d bought at Owakudani with me. I peeled it little by little over its paper wrapper, and a white hard-boiled egg emerged from beneath the black shell. The shell was black, but inside it looked like any other egg. I knew that, of course, but it still surprised me a little to peel it myself. I ended up laughing as I looked at it.
They say the shells turn black because minerals from the hot spring pools cling to them. I’d just been admiring Hakone’s mountains, and now I could see the hot springs’ handiwork in the egg I was holding. I found that fascinating. I took a bite and looked up again; distant Fuji was still right where it had been. I kept switching between my little egg and that vast view.
Taikanzan is said to take its name from Yokoyama Taikan, a painter said to have especially loved painting Mount Fuji. Looking at the mountains brought that story to mind. I hadn’t come here to paint, but I understand the urge to remember the scene just as it is. I kept looking at Mount Fuji, the lake and the ridges in front of it, again and again.
Even after I’d finished the egg and put its wrapper away, I wasn’t ready to leave. With my hands free, I could turn my attention fully to the view. I looked once more at the snow-capped mountain in the distance and the lake in front of it, and the joy of being in Hakone gradually sank in. The next time I drive beside Lake Ashi, I think I’ll remember how it looked from here.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
Things to try on your trip
Black eggs from Owakudani
When eggs are boiled in hot spring pools, minerals from the water cling to their shells and turn them black. You can buy them at places such as the Owakudani Kurotamago-kan. I brought the black egg to Taikanzan and peeled it over its paper wrapper. Even though I knew what was inside, I still laughed when the white egg appeared from under the black shell.
Highlights
A northern view across Hakone’s landscape
Taikanzan is a lookout on the southeastern side of Hakone’s outer rim. From the north side, you can see Lake Ashi, Mount Komagatake and other surrounding mountains. I found myself straightening up when I saw the shape of the lake spread out below.
The story behind Taikanzan’s name
Taikanzan is said to take its name from Yokoyama Taikan, a painter said to have especially loved painting Mount Fuji. As I watched the lake and mountains overlap, I found myself wanting to remember the view just as it was.
Road details
Road to Taikanzan’s northern observation area
At the lookout on the border between Hakone and Yugawara, I got out of the car and took my time looking out across Lake Ashi and beyond.
The best part of Taikanzan is stepping out of the car and taking in Hakone’s scenery. I’d love to pair it with a drive along the lakeshore.
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