Kochi City, Kochi Prefecture
Autumn at Katsurahama Waves to watch, icecrin to savour
Beyond the rocks and pines of Ryūō Cape, the Pacific opens up all the way to the horizon. At Katsurahama in autumn, a bite of icecrin made me smile at the chill. The sound of the waves made me take my time before the next bite. It was one of those afternoons that invites you to slow down.
It was a still-warm afternoon in early autumn, and I watched the waves at Katsurahama. I had a cardigan draped over my arm and icecrin in my hand. Once I started looking out at the sea, my break kept getting longer.
AutumnAn afternoon in early autumn
A cool bite between the waves
On a warm afternoon in early autumn, I looked out over the sea at Katsurahama. The Pacific stretched on as far as I could see. Pines grew across the rocks of Ryūō Cape, and waves kept rolling in below. I’d come to see the wide-open ocean, but at first I couldn’t take my eyes off the waves breaking against the rocks.
The beach curves in a wide arc, backed by a pine grove. As I walked, the cape I’d been admiring seemed to change shape, and I kept catching myself looking up. With my cardigan draped over my arm, I stopped to watch the sea. The early autumn air was still warm, and that only made me crave something cold even more.
I picked up a cone of icecrin, a local Kochi favourite. I lifted it carefully and took a bite. It had an icy, slightly crunchy texture and a light, refreshing finish—nothing like rich ice cream. I was about to take another bite when I heard the waves and looked back out at the sea, cone still in hand.
Each time a wave rolled in, foam gathered at the water’s edge, then vanished again. I loved watching the same stretch of sea, knowing every wave would be different. I looked down at the icecrin in my hand and laughed—right, I still had to eat this too. Somehow, the cold bites tasted even better with the sea distracting me.
I’d heard that Katsurahama has long been known as a place to admire the moon. I was looking out at the bright sea now, but I wondered what the cape would look like when the moon rose. I’d heard the story of Sakamoto Ryōma’s statue gazing out over the Pacific. After seeing that vast sea for myself, the story felt more familiar to me.
I finished my icecrin and thought I should head back, but then I wanted one last look at the waves. The breeze brushed my lips, still cool from the icecrin, and I instinctively squinted. A simple break to enjoy my icecrin and the sea had turned into the part of the day I most wanted to remember. Next time, I want to see Katsurahama under the moon.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
What to try on your trip
Icecrin
A popular Kochi treat, icecrin is low in milk fat and has a refreshing finish. Its slightly crunchy texture is fun, and I took my time enjoying it while I looked out at the sea.
Highlights
A curved beach and pine grove
Facing the Pacific, Katsurahama is known for its gently curving beach and the pine grove behind it. I found myself stopping as I looked from the cape’s rocks to the waves and back.
Sakamoto Ryōma’s statue looking out over the Pacific
The statue of Sakamoto Ryōma gazing out over the Pacific is an icon of Kochi. After taking in the sea before me, I could understand a little better the impulse to look out into the distance.
The route
Road to Katsurahama
Head to Katsurahama in Urado, Kochi City. Once I’m there, I’d like to walk along the beach and take my time admiring the cape and sea.
At Katsurahama, getting out of the car was part of the fun. Listening to the waves made me want to stay and watch the sea longer than I’d planned.
More Spot Guides
If you enjoyed this story, you might like these places too. I've gone back to each of them in different seasons, again and again.
