Oyama Afuri Shrine | Look up at the Lower Shrine’s roof and explore the mountain through every season

Budding trees in spring, deep summer greenery, autumn leaves and clear winter skies. Choose the season you’re curious about and come walk around the Lower Shrine with me.

Spring at the Lower Shrine of Oyama Afuri Shrine. In front of the worship hall and the building to its right, with newly budding mountain trees behind them, a woman in a mint ribbed sweater, white cardigan, fitted mini skirt and black ankle boots walks along the stone path with her phone lowered in one hand and looks up at the roof.

SpringApril–May, on a clear morning

Looking up at the worship hall’s roof beneath the budding trees

On a clear April morning, I rode the Oyama Cable Car up from the foot of the mountain. I stepped off at Afuri Shrine Station and walked toward the Lower Shrine. When the worship hall came into view beyond the stone path, I found my pace slowing without even realizing it.

Budding trees spread out behind the roof. Light slipped through the leaves, and when I looked from the mountain back to the worship hall, I could even make out the curl at the edge of the roof. I’d come for the spring scenery, but I ended up admiring the shape of the building, too.

I lowered the hand holding my phone and slowed my steps as I looked up at the roof. I followed the roof of the building to its right with my eyes, not just the roof straight ahead. At that moment, I wanted to take it all in with my own eyes instead of thinking about what to photograph.

After taking it all in, I turned toward the worship hall and paid my respects. I’d been following the roof and leaves with my eyes, but now my gaze rested on the hall. Thinking back over the journey up the mountain, I was glad I’d made today a day to take things slowly. It left me feeling at ease.

Afterward, I wanted to try some Oyama tofu. I’d also read about skewered dango, so suddenly there was dessert to look forward to as well. Tofu first, then dango? I hadn’t eaten any of it yet, but the thought had me looking forward to the way back.

Before leaving the shrine grounds, I looked up at the leaves behind the roof one more time. I wonder what the roof will look like once the leaves fill out. I wanted to remember this view, with my phone lowered as I walked, so I could compare it with the view in summer.

Summer at the Lower Shrine of Oyama Afuri Shrine. Against the worship hall and the building to its right, surrounded by deep green forest, a woman in a white tank top, light overshirt, khaki cargo mini skirt and black ankle boots rests on the stone path to the right, bringing a small water bottle to her lips.

SummerJuly–August, on a clear day

Taking a break for a sip of water in the deep summer green

One July day, I got off the Oyama Cable Car and headed for the Lower Shrine. As I walked from the station, the leafy mountain came into view behind the worship hall. When I stepped into the shrine grounds and looked up, what stayed with me was how the forest reached right up behind the buildings.

The mountain had grown so much greener since spring. I made my way toward the edge of the stone path, taking in the worship hall’s roof and the one layered just to its right. Some spots were in the sun, others in the shade, and I decided to pause there.

I brought the little water bottle to my lips and took a sip. After walking all that way, I felt my shoulders loosen as soon as I drank. As I stood there looking at the Lower Shrine, I realized I’d rather stay a little longer than rush off to the next place.

I lowered the bottle and caught my breath, then turned to the worship hall and paid my respects. Before my break, my eyes had been drawn to the size of the roof; now I noticed the spaces between the pillars and the stone steps, too. A short rest had changed the way I saw the whole place.

I was already thinking about chilled tofu for after my visit. I’d seen it recommended for hot weather, so I was excited to try it today. After that welcome drink of water, just the thought of cool tofu made me even hungrier.

Before leaving, I took in the leafy mountain and the worship hall side by side. When I arrived, I’d wanted to see everything, but stopping for a drink turned out to be one of the moments I enjoyed most today. Next time I come up the mountain, I want to make room for a pause like this along the way.

Autumn at the Lower Shrine of Oyama Afuri Shrine. To the right of the stone approach, a woman wearing a white padded jacket, pale purple hoodie, denim shorts, black tights and boots stands with her hands together facing the worship hall, whose red pillars are framed by autumn leaves.

AutumnNovember, on a clear morning among the autumn leaves

Taking in the autumn leaves around the grounds before visiting the Lower Shrine

On a clear November morning, I took the Oyama Cable Car up to the Lower Shrine. As I walked with the mountain air on my face, the worship hall with its red pillars came into view beyond the stone path.

Autumn leaves spread out on either side of the roof, with more mountain trees behind them. I looked up at the leaves on their own, then took them in with the roof. I stopped several times on the way to the worship hall; I already knew the view I wanted to see before I got close.

I turned to face the worship hall and put my hands together. I’d been following the leaves with my eyes, but when it was time to pay my respects, I wanted to focus quietly on the shrine. I thought about coming up the mountain and being able to walk around here today. I didn’t need any grand words; I was just glad to be here.

After paying my respects, I looked down at my feet. Fallen leaves dotted the stone path, giving me a different view of autumn from the one I’d had looking up. Then I looked at the spaces between the worship hall’s pillars, the edge of its roof and the trees around it. I found myself taking in the grounds more slowly than before I stopped to pay my respects. I shifted my position a little and wandered around.

After my morning detour, I wanted to try Oyama tofu, too. Yudofu (tofu hot pot) is recommended in the colder months, so it sounded just right for a meal today. I took one last look up at the leaves in the grounds before heading back. The climb up, the quiet moment with my hands together, and the meal waiting afterward—I wanted the autumn day to go on.

Winter at the Lower Shrine of Oyama Afuri Shrine. In front of the worship hall, backed by a clear sky, bare trees and evergreen forest, a woman in a white padded coat, lavender hoodie and scarf, denim shorts, black tights and winter boots stands with both feet on the middle of the stone path. She holds her gloves together in one hand, keeps her phone lowered and bows slightly.

WinterJanuary–February, on a clear day

Bowing to the worship hall from the stone path beneath a clear winter sky

On a clear day in January, I left my car at the foot of the mountain and took the Oyama Cable Car, then walked to the Lower Shrine. The air was cold against my cheeks, and I was glad I’d brought a scarf. When I stepped onto the stone path, clear sky stretched above the worship hall roof.

Behind the roof, bare branches overlapped with trees that still held their leaves. Where the foliage was sparse, I could see right through them, which I found fascinating. I let my eyes move from the worship hall to the building on its right, slowly tracing the rooflines against the sky.

Before turning to face the worship hall, I took off my gloves and gathered them in one hand. With my phone still lowered at my side, I brought my feet together at the center of the stone path and bowed slightly. As I lowered my head after looking up at the roof, my thoughts settled.

When I raised my head, I paid my respects. My shoulders, which I’d drawn up a little against the cold, seemed to relax on their own while I stood there. I was glad I hadn’t rushed back; I’d had time to savour the trip up the mountain.

After paying my respects, I started craving something warm. Oyama tofu is recommended as yudofu (tofu hot pot) in the colder months. I’d been looking forward to trying it; the thought of yudofu after a winter visit only made me more eager for the meal.

I pulled my gloves back on and headed back down. When I glanced back, the roof still caught my eye against the sky. I’d like to come back when those branches have new leaves. Now I have something to look forward to: comparing the Lower Shrine in spring with the view I saw after my winter bow.

The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.

Photos of this place4 images

Isehara City, Kanagawa Prefecture · Spring
Isehara City, Kanagawa Prefecture · Summer
Isehara City, Kanagawa Prefecture · Autumn
Isehara City, Kanagawa Prefecture · Winter

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Local food to try

Oyama tofu

A local tofu dish to enjoy on a visit to Oyama. The rest house near the Lower Shrine also recommends yudofu (tofu hot pot) in the colder months. I was looking forward to a meal after admiring the autumn leaves and paying my respects.

Highlights

Autumn leaves framing the worship hall

Oyama is a lovely place to see the autumn leaves. At the Lower Shrine, you can admire the foliage around the shrine buildings before paying your respects. I made a point of taking in how the leaves framed the roof both before and after my visit.

A cable car ride up the mountainside

The ride from Oyama Cable Station to Afuri Shrine Station takes about 6 minutes. From there, you can continue on to the Lower Shrine. Once you arrive, take a walk through the grounds and enjoy the mountain air.

Cable car to the Lower Shrine

Oyama Cable Station–Afuri Shrine Station

Line length: About 800 m
Elevation difference between stations: About 280 m

This cable car line climbs the mountainside. It takes about 6 minutes to reach Afuri Shrine Station, leaving you time to enjoy the walk to the Lower Shrine.

The cable car line is about 800 m long, with about 280 m of elevation difference between the stations. I left my car at the foot of the mountain and went up to the Lower Shrine by cable car and on foot.

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