Oda, Shimane Prefecture
Exploring Yunotsu Onsen Walk its old streets, then unwind at a bathhouse and try a hot-spring egg
Yunotsu, in Oda City, Shimane Prefecture, flourished as both a hot-spring town and a port as Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine developed. On a September morning, park the car and explore the old streets on foot before visiting a public bathhouse with water drawn straight from the spring. After your soak, enjoy hot-spring eggs or vegetables steamed with the spring water at Yakushiyu.
Here’s my trip through Yunotsu on a cloudy September morning: a slow drive through town, a stroll through its narrow streets, then a pause at the public bathhouse and a bite to eat.
AutumnA September morning
I drove slowly down the street, then came back on foot to take it all in
On a cloudy September morning, I turned my red convertible onto one of Yunotsu’s narrow streets. The eaves on either side were close to the car, and the road curved gently ahead. Wearing my short black jacket, I kept both hands on the wheel and my eyes on the road as I eased forward. I’d leave the details of the houses for a closer look on foot.
When I got out and returned to the same street, I could see the wooden latticework and overlapping eaves up close. Small potted plants stood outside the houses. Even though I was just visiting, it felt like I was walking right alongside someone’s everyday life. With the sky overcast, I found myself enjoying the details of the wood and white walls. The short street I’d just driven along became a place to take my time and explore on foot.
I’d heard that Yunotsu had flourished as an important center for trade and distribution as Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine was developed. I’d come just for the hot springs, but when I found out there was a port nearby, I wanted to take another look at the map. I pictured the silver mine in the mountains, the port by the sea, and the hot-spring town where people lived between the two. What had been a simple stroll past the houses gradually became a chance to think about the town’s history.
After my walk around town, I stepped into a public bathhouse. As I lowered myself into the hot water, the tension I’d been carrying in my shoulders since morning began to melt away. I was so glad to unwind in a town where the public baths are fed straight from the springs. I didn’t want to think about when I’d have to move on, so even after my soak, I took my time getting ready.
At lunchtime, I had a hot-spring egg at Shin'yu Café Kuranojō. I took one bite, savored its soft texture, and found myself smiling all over again after the bath. I heard you can also get vegetables steamed with water from Yakushiyu’s spring. It felt like the hot spring was part of my meal, too. Next time, I want to try the vegetables.
After walking the street once more, I got back to the car. The houses I’d seen that morning already felt more familiar than when I’d first arrived. Maybe it was because I’d taken a soak, learned a little about the town’s history, and enjoyed a meal, too. I kept my eyes ahead and both hands on the wheel as I slowly drove out of town. It was only a short street, but I couldn’t shake the feeling that I wanted to stay a little longer.
The story sections are fiction inspired by this location. For accurate information, please consult official tourism and information websites.
Local specialty
Hot-spring eggs and vegetables steamed with Yakushiyu spring water
At Shin'yu Café Kuranojō, you can order hot-spring eggs and seasonal vegetables steamed with water from Yakushiyu’s spring. I had an egg after my bath. After warming up in the bath, that soft first bite made me smile. Now I want to try the steamed vegetables next time, too.
Highlights
A town linking the silver mine and port
In the medieval and early modern periods, Yunotsu flourished as an important center for trade and distribution alongside the development of Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine. The port is just a short walk from the onsen town. I came for the hot springs, but I wanted to look at the town and port on a map, and that gave me even more to enjoy on my walk.
An onsen town with its historic street plan
Yunotsu retains its Edo-period street layout and is designated an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings by the national government. It also served as an important base for Iwami Ginzan, which was registered as a World Heritage Site in 2007. I loved looking up at the eaves as I walked and seeing how closely the hot springs and everyday life are woven together.
Yakushiyu’s former bathhouse, now a café
Shin'yu Café Kuranojō occupies Yakushiyu’s former bathhouse. The Taishō-era Western-style wooden building features a steam-vent tower and decorative arches beneath the eaves. I was drawn to the details and intrigued to learn that the old bathhouse now houses a café. I wanted to get a closer look at the building.
Road information
Street in Yunotsu Onsen
This onsen-town street is lined with wooden houses and inns. I drove along it slowly in my red car, parked, then walked back. I had more time to take in the eaves and windows, and realized I enjoyed walking the street just as much.
When I arrived in the onsen town, I parked and walked back along the street I’d just driven. I took in the eaves and windows up close before heading to the public bathhouse. It gave me time to enjoy the town in a way I couldn’t while driving.
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