Golden Road and Funbe Falls I clasp my gloved hands and take in the icicles lining the cliff

I came to Hiroo in winter with my friend and took a break at Funbe Falls along the Golden Road. I’d pictured one large waterfall. Instead, ice columns hung from the cliff in a row, each a slightly different length and thickness, filling the spaces in the rock face.

I kept my navy down jacket on and rubbed my gloved hands together at my chest. The sky was clear, but my cheeks felt cold; each time I breathed out, the end of my scarf fluttered. Standing in the cold and looking at the ice made winter feel much more real than it does in a photo. My friend was warming her hands, too, as she looked out toward the edge of the cliff.

The ice caught the light, showing fine lines; beside one icicle, a patch of rock was still exposed. I liked seeing that the ice hadn’t frozen to the same thickness everywhere. I watched one icicle, then followed a slender one farther back. I didn’t even have to get close; I lost track of time just following their different shapes with my eyes.

Funbe Falls is formed by groundwater that wells up at the top of the cliff and runs down beside the road. In winter, that water freezes into icicles. Learning that it forms differently from a waterfall along a river, I felt I was starting to understand the sight of so many icicles lining the cliff. I’ve also heard that the name means “a shore where whales are caught.”

The Golden Road is a stretch of National Route 336 along the coast, connecting Hiroo with Shoya in Erimo Town. It passes right by the falls. It’s named for the huge amount of money spent on building it. The Golden Road has a grand name, but the winter ice is what I’ll remember from today. It’s the kind of sight you want to stand and stare at. My friend and I talked about wanting to see the water flowing in summer, too.

Shishamo is one of the local specialties I want to try in Hiroo. Hearing that it’s one of Hiroo’s signature fish makes it all feel connected, from the story behind the falls’ name to a seafood meal. For now, I warmed my hands as I took in the view, already looking forward to a meal in town. I like a midday pause like this on a winter drive along the coast.