Dogo Onsen Honkan A spring dusk, looking up with dango in hand

One early April evening, I came to Dogo Onsen Honkan. Looking up, I saw the tiled roofs stacked one above another, with the little Shinrokaku tower above them. Even with daylight still in the sky, the sense that it was nearly time to leave made me a little restless. I wanted to stay a while longer, so I looked down at the Botchan dango in my hand.

I was about to take a bite when my gaze drifted back up to the roof. I meant to look at the Shinrokaku, but the dango in my hand kept finding its way into view. I held it up just a little, and suddenly the main building appeared beyond it. I started enjoying seeing them together more than I expected.

For a while, I stood there holding the dango and looking up at the main building. My gaze moved slowly from the wooden window frames to the roof, then up to the Shinrokaku. I was only taking in the view before I ate, but holding the dango aloft made me look like I was presenting something precious. That thought made me laugh to myself.

I lowered my hand and finally took a bite. A moment ago, the dango had been part of the view; now it was a sweet in my mouth. Somehow, even that little change made me smile as I looked up at the building again. For me, that little back-and-forth might be the most indulgent way to spend this moment.

Dogo Onsen Honkan is a wooden three-story building, and the whole structure is designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. Hearing that makes me want to look at every little detail, but first, I just love being able to slow down here. As the sky beyond the roof gradually darkened, I took my time with the next bite.

When I finished the last dango, I was sorry to see it go. But the building was still right in front of me, so I stayed a little longer to look up. Before I walked away, I looked toward the Shinrokaku once more. I knew I’d want to tell someone about the sweet I’d eaten and this evening when I got home.