At Odo Coast Lookout I followed the white surf up to the cliffs above

One August morning, I walked the coastal trail at Odo Coast. I had on an apricot short-sleeved top, comfortable shorts and a small backpack; I was here to take in the sea. Where the trees opened onto the coast, I could see open water on my left and a headland with cliffs on my right. I reached the wooden railing—and stopped in my tracks.

At the foot of the cliff, the surf looked white. I started there, then traced the gray rock face upward until it gave way to green trees. Seen that way, the cliffs felt much taller and more massive than when I looked at the sea and cliffs together. I rested one hand lightly on the railing and wanted another look, to see where the headland began and ended.

There were low rocks offshore, and farther out, the outline of land layered over the horizon. Once I turned from the nearby cliff toward the distant land, the difference between near and far really stood out. A moment ago, the cliff had held my gaze; now I couldn’t stop thinking about how wide the sea was. I was glad I’d walked out here, so I lingered by the railing and took it all in.

I’d heard this whole stretch of coast is part of Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park, and that there’s a trail where you can enjoy the scenery, so I worked a walk into my drive. When I travel by car, I usually start thinking about the next stop as soon as I arrive. But today it was fun just letting time pass as I compared the shapes of the rocks in front of me.

I adjusted the straps on my backpack and felt the breeze coming in off the sea. The shrubs ahead stirred a little, and the water shimmered beyond them. The cliffs stayed still, but the waves below changed shape every time I looked. I wanted to watch just a little longer before taking a photo. I never thought a walk along the trail would leave me standing still for so long.

After the walk, I’m looking forward to trying Otsuki’s strawberry shaved ice at Roadside Station Otsuki. It’s made by freezing whole strawberries into a block of ice, then shaving it into a treat—enough to make me want to plan a summer detour. I had the strawberry treat to look forward to, but before I left, I turned back for one last look at the cliffs. I want to remember how immense the cliffs looked, along with the sea at Odo Coast. Then I headed back along the trail.